Barkly Tableland and over the border into Northern Territory

Lesson learned. From Mt Isa to Lawn Hill the short dirt corrugated road (250k) takes 7 hours. So does the long road out on bitumen via Burke and Wills roadhouse (750k). Lawn Hill is in Boodjamulla national park - a little bit of paradise in otherwise desert country in the Dry. We selected a perfect spot in the Grove right beside Lawn Creek just metres from the resident Johnson crocodile. You take a tube and float up and down in clear cool water. Water lilies you can see from the roots up in deep water, Birds of many species. 

The croc

Our view

A short drive to the national park early in the morning and up the creek we go in a canoe from the lower to upper gorge. Stunning scenery and delicious swimming near the falls. A highlight of this trip and well worth the extra k's.

A bonus on the trip out was a glimpse of a herd of cattle appearing out of the trees to our side being driven south by two quintessentially garbed drovers. There are a number of herds making up this large drive to the Riverina. An event that has not occurred for decades brought about by drought and fickle overseas markets This image is burned on my psyche.  No pic but I will try to paint it. 

On the way back to the Isa we spent a beautiful night at the deserted ex-town of Mary Kathleen. No neighbours and shooting stars in a perfect temperature after sunset.  Just past Camooweal we cross the border. The road is good and the speed limit goes up to 130k. A couple of stops at free camps Avon Downs (memorable for worst smelling toilets) and Newcastle Waters. Quick visit to drovers quarters museum at Newcastle Waters station.

A drovers life

 Barkly Homestead 

is a well kept road stop on way to the Stuart highway where we stop going west and turn north to our stop for the next stay at Daly Waters Hotel. What a great spot for food, fun and entertainment. Met another VISE teacher working at Sunday Creek station and loving it. 

At beautiful Mataranka we swim at Bitter Springs in the Elsey national park, the Roper River fed by Lawn Creek all the way from the Barkly Tableland. A tropical feeling at the van park here albeit the road remains dry and hot. We travel more hours a day now as the car is more comfortable than the heat. Time to slow down here where we can keep cool though the water temp is 35 degrees.  Jeannie Gunn's "We of the Never Never" was written here from Elsey station where she lived.  I am reading this now and it much more having experienced both the area and cattle station life.  

Up the road in Katherine we meet up with Edna and Karl, our neighbours and very close friends back home. They came via the Nullabor and WA.  What we won't do to have a drink and good times with them! We visit Cutta Cutta caves with them. "Cutta" means star. If you repeat the word it means "many of". 

The aboriginal presence increases and we see places like Cloncurry where integration and good relations is highly valued and proudly emphasised by all locals to places where incredibly poor looking people hang on the outskirts and ask for a six pack. We hear views from fellow travellers based on prejudice rather than knowledge and facts - aboriginal land rights, refugees, non-existence of climate change etc.  - depressing!  We have also heard from people who do know like a nurse in the jail and her husband. Genocide by alcohol to feed local economies. Choosing to go to jail to access medical treatment. 

Edith Falls is another glorious spot in a Nitimiluk national park. Nitimi is a colourful and rare cicada. "Luk" means "place of". Walks and swimming holes here. 

This episode has been late coming. Gone a bit troppo but tales of Darwin and Bali will follow soon.