From the quiet Java sea and fishing boats to the busy ship traffic of the rubbish-strewn Singapore Straits

Does a school of flying fish become a flock of flying fish when it leaves the water, wonders Colin. This morning we left the Java Sea and entered the South China Sea. Shortly we will be in the Singapore Straits as we reach Bintan, our last stop in wonderful Indonesia. 

Back at anchorage in pretty Kentar Island we celebrated crossing the Equator at 5.28 am 22 October. 

We joined Lyn and Chris on catamaran Out of the Blue ll and Bill and Becky of Water Musik for drinks and nibbles. 

The locals at Kentar visited us in small row boats. Seems a very poor village. Enjoyed conversing with 19 year old Rico who was studying Environmental Studies at Uni. Bauxite is mined at Kentar. Each boat wanted to have a chat and each asked afterwards for sugar, shampoo, shirts, books, pens. We gave them what we had left along with lollies for the kids. A number of them had turned eye problems and blindness.  A fisherman brought us fish and would not accept payment. We asked him to take back some gifts. Would have liked to visit the village and nearby town. Next time!

Enjoyed a swim inthe clean clear water. 

I cooked scones for the first time:

- on a boat

- in the Northern Hemisphere

- in Indonesia 

Nearing our last destination we indulge in a nibbles platter as well. 

Next day sailing, or should say motoring, with no wind and very still seas. Saw dolphins, flying fish, a water snake and colourful caterpillar-like creatures with frilly sides. Magical journey. 

After a short stop at anchor for a rest amongst hundreds of floating fishing huts we reach the Nirwana Waters resort at Bintan.

Beautiful island.  Definitely a change of pace. Swimming pool with swim-up bar, showers, western toilets that work! But also Australian prices charged in Singapore dollars. What? $8.00 for a Bintang beer? Here we submit our papers to the waiting immigration officials for departure from Indonesia. A trouble free process. Not so easy for Colin and I to access our money through the ATM at the resort for some reason. 

The resort is preparing for our farewell dinner. This will be the last organised event for Sail Indonesia. At 1.00pm we eagerly await Sam's arrival in the traditional Indonesian sailing boat. Three days and two nights with three crew. Wooden seats, no cover from sun or rain. This is an amazing journey. The Regent of Belitung who owns the boat and his entourage are on the beach as the official welcoming party. It is to go into a maritime museum at Bintan. 

Sam is in the black TShirt. The Regent in the mustard coloured shirt to the left.  Sam tells Cec the head of the village at Bangka called him to say his wife is still crying after we left. Definitely made an impact back there. 

And what a party. Three course buffet meal, tables en plain air in the moonlight by the shore in front of a stage from which we are entertained with both traditional music and dance and more upbeat modern dance (Los Vegas Indonesian one of our American friends calls it). Speeches and gift sharing between Belitung and Bintan province Regents and a rousing and emotional thanks to Sam, the Sail Indonesia Rally organiser extraordinaire.  And finally the resort band plays modern songs starting with Sailing by Rod Stewart. This is the last chance for yachties of many nationalities and ages to dance their hearts out and say goodbye to good friends made. Eleven year old Melody from Water Musik is wearing a hijab and dancing with 6' 6" Jason from Yolo. The band are so pleased with this reception they come down to dance with us. 

Now I sit in the cockpit in the gentle swell watching many of the yachts leave for marinas in Singapore or Malaysia and hearing them converse and playfully fill radio Channel 77 with music to each other "on the road again ..."  "Convoy" by CW McCall :)) Included are one yacht with disabled motors being towed by another. We wish them luck across the busy Straits.  Today we will fix things on the boat, sort out banking and communication issues and enjoy the pool and restaurant with the remaining crews. A restful day before we too tackle the Straits. 

To be continued ....

Bangka

2301 nautical miles from Darwin. Expect to get to Equator tomorrow in 80 NM at an island called  Kentar around sunrise 22 October 2013. Champagne!

Here we are motoring along steadily on calm seas at night. Have regretfully left Bangka en route to Bintan. Thunderstorms playing around us. Full moon hiding behind the clouds. Plenty of ships as we cross the busy shipping lanes going north, traffic coming from Singapore. The usual fishing boats and "squiddies" to keep us on the lookout ncluding the odd one without lights.  Good time to write the blog. 

So how did you go with guessing what Du Dul is? It is a confection made from coconut, rice, palm sugar, flavouring and rolled in a log about 8cm by 30cm and wrapped in glad wrap. Sliced its delicious for dessert. It does look rather like a couple of other things reminiscent of its name to an English ear. Cousin Lizzie hinted at 33%. 

Every place we go we say it can't get better than this. Well Bangka has done it again. First impressions were not great as the anchorage was very rolly and we were affected by fumes from the diesel of a fishing boat anchored near by. The water seemed very milky and not appealing to swim in. Some yachts departed immediately next morning despite Sam arriving in his Indonesial sailboat and asking them to stay.  This was a great shame as the weather settled, the sea became a mill pond and cleared, the friendliest people so far here and the treats they provided were just incredible. It was a shame for the people of Bangka and the organisers that only ten yachts came to this event and 7 stayed for all the activities provided. 

There appeared to be little there as we arrived on the beach in our rubber duck. Just a couple of sheds with tables, some bins for rubbish and a half built stage - again first impressions of the village of Beriga were deceiving. We have learnt to have faith in Sam, the Sail Indonesia rally leader, and in each committee in the places we visit to provide something unique, surprising and often overwhelming in each destination. The children and indeed all the villagers were keen to say hello and get close to us. Hello Mister. Like most places since Bali westerners are rarely seen. 

Sam sailed this boat with two others from East Belitung to Bangka. Now sailing to Bintan can do 8 to 9 knots. 

A bus was waiting to take us to Koba, the nearest town, for shopping and sightseeing. Our guides Robby and Rahmat from the tourism department and volunteers Edi and Sylvia took us through the island pointing out the tin mining areas- devastation - the rubber, palm oil and pepper plantations.

In town we visited the Chinese temple. There are a large number of Chinese descendants living here alongside the Malays. Islam is the predominant religion. The frescoes and statues in the temple were quite confronting in their violence, depicting Hell and Heaven and the three gods - the wise one, the war god and protector, and the lady. 

Kerryn from Yolo showing how big the candles are n front of the lady.

Hell.

Heaven. 

Jason from Yolo checking his name is not on the register to go to Hell. 

Once the food and fuel purchase had been made on this six hour trip we return to find the scene had been set for the festival. We were asked to visit the homes of the village chief and two others. These were substantial homes with tiled floors, lavish furniture and bathrooms which we were invited to use during our stay in the village. 

At each we were offered nibbles and drinks and asked to pose for photos - this can be hard work when it is so incredibly hot and humid and people are crowding around to greet you.  Always  a crowd of spectators.  We four were invited to dinner at the Head-man's house with Sam and the Mnister for Tourism. Pinkie snapper cooked on coals beside the front verandah. 

This village would have welcomed us sleeping over in their houses.  Then we were ushered to our seats of honour under the newly built pavilion to look across a small grassy valley to the entertainment stage with the sea as backdrop. A perfect position to enjoy the show and to be part of it as we responded to invitations to sing or dance.  

This was the first of three evenings of performances from a number of villages in Central Bangka region competing for recognition and monetary prizes. Requests for photos were constant with the occasional policeman or soldier shooing the people away so we could have a rest. The police who visited our yacht for photos explained that 40 extra had been brought in for the occasion. Their presence was obvious yet unobtrusive they seem to maintain order quietly without show of force. 

Next morning John and Cec handd out pencils, notepads and lollipops. 

On Saturday Cec and John did some boat maintenance. Colin and I again boarded a bus for a tour.  The children saw us off. Hundreds of them :)

This time we went into the forest to see bees being smoked out to collect the honey. Some of us got stung. We were given honey drink, corn, boiled peanuts for morning tea. 

Cheers!  Harris was also the MC and translator for the entertainment. 

Then we went to the honey store where we were given a piece of honeycomb, some extra honey -madu- poured on top and a piece of cassava to eat it with. More cold honey juice to refresh. Yum!!  

A walk in the steamy forrest to see the red trunked Pelawan trees where special mushrooms grow that dried fetch $100 US a kilo. They come out when the lightening comes - later we treated to traditional lunch including these mushrooms. 

Young Raymond from Water Musik. He and brother Joey are very popular with the Indonesian girls and getting less shy every day!

We were treated to a traditional Bangka meal unique to the bee area. This was enjoyed in a meeting house on stilts in the middle of paddy fields where red rice another specialty of the area is grown. We were told we were extremely privileged to be given such a meal by this village chief. It was extremely spicy so some of us struggled to eat much of it but the hospitality was wonderful. 

On the way home an unexpected treat was a visit for Chris and Lyn from Out of the Blue ll Colin and I four of us to Robby's home where we spent time with his wife, son and nine month twin daughters. 

Check these two in their island shirts. 

Sunday the best was yet to come. Incoming were mountain bike riders from Jakarta and elsewhere in the Tour de Bangka. Like us they were in a rally and donating fruit trees to the local community. 

The main attraction however was a mass wedding. 36 couples formalised their marriages. Early we were invited to visit the house where the brides make-up was being done. 

Next door the decorations including hard-boiled eggs in little baskets hanging from paper trees were being prepared.

 We were asked to go and film the wedding procession including a brass band and to join in the procession. Chance for soldiers to get a photo.

The couples in their traditional dress, Muslim or Christian, were seated on a stage with their respective witnesses and celebrants. And can you believe we were asked to join them and sit right beside a couple each to watch the ceremony and have it explained to us? It really felt intrusive and we were embarrassed but it was great kudos for them apparently to have us there. It was very moving. 

Meanwhile Sam makes a quiet escape to head off to Bintan. We glimpse him going by Kentor Island, our next anchorage. 

Finally we were asked to have a special meal "nangeen" prepared by the village women and to sit on the ground eating it in front of the whole village. Had to watch our manners (eating with right hand only) and it was not hard to show much appreciation as it was delicious. We felt guilty eating in front of everyone. We are so rich and they are mostly so poor. 

Finally we were asked to go onstage and sing to honour the brides and grooms. Luckily someone had song words so we sang Yesterday by the Beatles, Sailing by Rod Stewart and finally, (Robby the guides idea ) La Bamba in Spanish.  Followed by dancing, each of us being partnered by a local. Wow!

When all the speeches, singing, dancing and celebrations were over we were all escorted to our respective dingies. At this point everyone wanted a last chance to shake hands and in some cases kiss us. Tears fell on both sides. We left with regret and we wonder how they are feeling today after this festival which is such a rare occasion for them. There will be many pictures to share and yes many of them are on Facebook. 

What will the children remember of this? Some of the little ones were scared of us. Others, like the little girl who befriended me, will remember washing herself all over with my dettol handwash as she sat on my knee and we watched the show together she flicking through the photos on my iPad trying to find the one of me on the beach in my bathers. A source of much fascination to her and the others crowding around us to look. 

After a couple of nights and days sailing and a brief stop to toast crossing the Equator we reach our last destinationof Bintan in Indonesia. This is a resort town and the last event before we check out of Indonesia and make for a marina in Malaysia within easy reach of Singapore. 

Can't believe this magical journey has gone so fast  We are enjoying every moment in such great company. 

A moving journey and a precious touching of cultures

Salamat pagi, good morning family and friends

We leave behind this beautiful island Belitong it's surrounding turquoise waters decorated with multi-coloured granite mini-islands. This island now holds special significance for Colin and I forever. There is one little island that in the distance looks for all the world like a peacefully sleeping spaniel. 

Sorry. Wrong pic. The island is on Colin's camera so will have to wait for that. 

We have seen some incredible and sometimes disturbing performances here - one young sailor goes away with broken skin and welts on his back from participating in the fighting sticks performance. 

The men from Java riding rattan horses who are induced into trances by various means and then have the evil drawn out of them are quite scary. Can't be good for their health and the locals move to the back stalls to make sure they aren't In their path as they start to fit. We were told by guide Madi that they were unconscious and we were seeing their souls. Animism at work!  Meanwhile one of our yachtie companions had her camera almost in their faces! Sigh. Other performances are so beautiful and they put their heart and soul in to give us a special experience. 

We are treated like movie stars everyone greeting us as we move along and wanting photos with us and to talk to us. Few westerners get here. It's only a 45 minute flight from Jakarta and in our view a must-do. 

 So many Australians have only seen Bali and only certain parts of that island or nearby Lombok.  The down sides such as the incessant selling and the ugly tourist do not exist elsewhere in Indonesia that we have seen. 

A highlight of our guided tour here was a visit to a senior high school where we were let loose to join students in their classrooms and teach some English, talk about our country and family, answer varied questions and share photos.

 We talk of the importance for their job chances of speaking English and discuss the issues facing their country and ours. Environment and climate is foremost in their minds. Effective rubbish disposal and protecting native forests being their concerns. Our day started with release of 500 baby Turtles on the beach. 

The Gala dinner here was fantastic with a lovely buffet meal, a very good band and singers who sang western songs as well as local, and some really amazing costumes. This was a professional, well organised event in a beautiful amphitheatre. 

We experienced our first really heavy rain yesterday sitting in a warung in town waiting for the shops to open at 1.00 as it was a Muslim holiday. The people we were with were somewhat concerned, justifiably, as they had left their boat with hatches up.  We got excited as our driver Rosa was going to take us to an Italian delicatessen. Mouths were watering with thoughts of salami, cheese and bread. Alas it was closed for the holiday.  Oh well the thought was nearly as good as the reality. Back to soto Ayam (chicken soup), Nasi Goreng, Mie Goreng, Ikan (fish) ulung (prawn), cumi (calamari), pisan (banana), Bakso (noodle soup), etc etc. 

Can you guess what this is?  It's, called Du Dul. 

Speaking of chicken soup we were asked to sing into the microphone at a dance on stage and we didn't know the words so we sang " I do do do like soto Ayam " which caused hysterics. Later we found out we were being propositioned by our respective partners and were meant to reply in kind :))))

Bridal bed at traditional meeting house, Belitung. 

Back at the beach we met 16 year old Sara whose parents have a tin mining corporation. She later brings and introduces her 21 year old sister Ega who has graduated from uni in politics majoring in international relations. She works for a human rights organisation and had some distressing stories to tell of news brought by visitors from N Korea of people in jail for decades with insufficient food and being invited to eat their children. And of atrocities she heard of in Aceh in the time of occupation there. She has a passion for forensic science and wants to study at Sydney University. She will visit us in Melbourne. When Cec and John return here next April they are invited to fly in the girls parents plane to see the tin mine. I am jealous already :)

It will take an Olympic Games in Indonesia for Australians to begin to appreciate the cultural diversity and character and personality of Indonesia and the way people of different religions live very happily together.  Our view of Muslim people and customs has changed completely.  Meanwhile we are happy to be ambassadors and relationship builders. 

Salamat Malam, good evening