Bangka

2301 nautical miles from Darwin. Expect to get to Equator tomorrow in 80 NM at an island called  Kentar around sunrise 22 October 2013. Champagne!

Here we are motoring along steadily on calm seas at night. Have regretfully left Bangka en route to Bintan. Thunderstorms playing around us. Full moon hiding behind the clouds. Plenty of ships as we cross the busy shipping lanes going north, traffic coming from Singapore. The usual fishing boats and "squiddies" to keep us on the lookout ncluding the odd one without lights.  Good time to write the blog. 

So how did you go with guessing what Du Dul is? It is a confection made from coconut, rice, palm sugar, flavouring and rolled in a log about 8cm by 30cm and wrapped in glad wrap. Sliced its delicious for dessert. It does look rather like a couple of other things reminiscent of its name to an English ear. Cousin Lizzie hinted at 33%. 

Every place we go we say it can't get better than this. Well Bangka has done it again. First impressions were not great as the anchorage was very rolly and we were affected by fumes from the diesel of a fishing boat anchored near by. The water seemed very milky and not appealing to swim in. Some yachts departed immediately next morning despite Sam arriving in his Indonesial sailboat and asking them to stay.  This was a great shame as the weather settled, the sea became a mill pond and cleared, the friendliest people so far here and the treats they provided were just incredible. It was a shame for the people of Bangka and the organisers that only ten yachts came to this event and 7 stayed for all the activities provided. 

There appeared to be little there as we arrived on the beach in our rubber duck. Just a couple of sheds with tables, some bins for rubbish and a half built stage - again first impressions of the village of Beriga were deceiving. We have learnt to have faith in Sam, the Sail Indonesia rally leader, and in each committee in the places we visit to provide something unique, surprising and often overwhelming in each destination. The children and indeed all the villagers were keen to say hello and get close to us. Hello Mister. Like most places since Bali westerners are rarely seen. 

Sam sailed this boat with two others from East Belitung to Bangka. Now sailing to Bintan can do 8 to 9 knots. 

A bus was waiting to take us to Koba, the nearest town, for shopping and sightseeing. Our guides Robby and Rahmat from the tourism department and volunteers Edi and Sylvia took us through the island pointing out the tin mining areas- devastation - the rubber, palm oil and pepper plantations.

In town we visited the Chinese temple. There are a large number of Chinese descendants living here alongside the Malays. Islam is the predominant religion. The frescoes and statues in the temple were quite confronting in their violence, depicting Hell and Heaven and the three gods - the wise one, the war god and protector, and the lady. 

Kerryn from Yolo showing how big the candles are n front of the lady.

Hell.

Heaven. 

Jason from Yolo checking his name is not on the register to go to Hell. 

Once the food and fuel purchase had been made on this six hour trip we return to find the scene had been set for the festival. We were asked to visit the homes of the village chief and two others. These were substantial homes with tiled floors, lavish furniture and bathrooms which we were invited to use during our stay in the village. 

At each we were offered nibbles and drinks and asked to pose for photos - this can be hard work when it is so incredibly hot and humid and people are crowding around to greet you.  Always  a crowd of spectators.  We four were invited to dinner at the Head-man's house with Sam and the Mnister for Tourism. Pinkie snapper cooked on coals beside the front verandah. 

This village would have welcomed us sleeping over in their houses.  Then we were ushered to our seats of honour under the newly built pavilion to look across a small grassy valley to the entertainment stage with the sea as backdrop. A perfect position to enjoy the show and to be part of it as we responded to invitations to sing or dance.  

This was the first of three evenings of performances from a number of villages in Central Bangka region competing for recognition and monetary prizes. Requests for photos were constant with the occasional policeman or soldier shooing the people away so we could have a rest. The police who visited our yacht for photos explained that 40 extra had been brought in for the occasion. Their presence was obvious yet unobtrusive they seem to maintain order quietly without show of force. 

Next morning John and Cec handd out pencils, notepads and lollipops. 

On Saturday Cec and John did some boat maintenance. Colin and I again boarded a bus for a tour.  The children saw us off. Hundreds of them :)

This time we went into the forest to see bees being smoked out to collect the honey. Some of us got stung. We were given honey drink, corn, boiled peanuts for morning tea. 

Cheers!  Harris was also the MC and translator for the entertainment. 

Then we went to the honey store where we were given a piece of honeycomb, some extra honey -madu- poured on top and a piece of cassava to eat it with. More cold honey juice to refresh. Yum!!  

A walk in the steamy forrest to see the red trunked Pelawan trees where special mushrooms grow that dried fetch $100 US a kilo. They come out when the lightening comes - later we treated to traditional lunch including these mushrooms. 

Young Raymond from Water Musik. He and brother Joey are very popular with the Indonesian girls and getting less shy every day!

We were treated to a traditional Bangka meal unique to the bee area. This was enjoyed in a meeting house on stilts in the middle of paddy fields where red rice another specialty of the area is grown. We were told we were extremely privileged to be given such a meal by this village chief. It was extremely spicy so some of us struggled to eat much of it but the hospitality was wonderful. 

On the way home an unexpected treat was a visit for Chris and Lyn from Out of the Blue ll Colin and I four of us to Robby's home where we spent time with his wife, son and nine month twin daughters. 

Check these two in their island shirts. 

Sunday the best was yet to come. Incoming were mountain bike riders from Jakarta and elsewhere in the Tour de Bangka. Like us they were in a rally and donating fruit trees to the local community. 

The main attraction however was a mass wedding. 36 couples formalised their marriages. Early we were invited to visit the house where the brides make-up was being done. 

Next door the decorations including hard-boiled eggs in little baskets hanging from paper trees were being prepared.

 We were asked to go and film the wedding procession including a brass band and to join in the procession. Chance for soldiers to get a photo.

The couples in their traditional dress, Muslim or Christian, were seated on a stage with their respective witnesses and celebrants. And can you believe we were asked to join them and sit right beside a couple each to watch the ceremony and have it explained to us? It really felt intrusive and we were embarrassed but it was great kudos for them apparently to have us there. It was very moving. 

Meanwhile Sam makes a quiet escape to head off to Bintan. We glimpse him going by Kentor Island, our next anchorage. 

Finally we were asked to have a special meal "nangeen" prepared by the village women and to sit on the ground eating it in front of the whole village. Had to watch our manners (eating with right hand only) and it was not hard to show much appreciation as it was delicious. We felt guilty eating in front of everyone. We are so rich and they are mostly so poor. 

Finally we were asked to go onstage and sing to honour the brides and grooms. Luckily someone had song words so we sang Yesterday by the Beatles, Sailing by Rod Stewart and finally, (Robby the guides idea ) La Bamba in Spanish.  Followed by dancing, each of us being partnered by a local. Wow!

When all the speeches, singing, dancing and celebrations were over we were all escorted to our respective dingies. At this point everyone wanted a last chance to shake hands and in some cases kiss us. Tears fell on both sides. We left with regret and we wonder how they are feeling today after this festival which is such a rare occasion for them. There will be many pictures to share and yes many of them are on Facebook. 

What will the children remember of this? Some of the little ones were scared of us. Others, like the little girl who befriended me, will remember washing herself all over with my dettol handwash as she sat on my knee and we watched the show together she flicking through the photos on my iPad trying to find the one of me on the beach in my bathers. A source of much fascination to her and the others crowding around us to look. 

After a couple of nights and days sailing and a brief stop to toast crossing the Equator we reach our last destinationof Bintan in Indonesia. This is a resort town and the last event before we check out of Indonesia and make for a marina in Malaysia within easy reach of Singapore. 

Can't believe this magical journey has gone so fast  We are enjoying every moment in such great company.