Queensland and Northern Territory

Finally I have some time and telstra service to update this blog. I apologise for toomuch in one episode friends. I am taking it easy after our first COVID jabs yesterday here at Kununurra. No vaccination availability until now. And can’t get the second one until we’ll down the WA coast. Go figure!
Emerald to Ilfracombe 

21 April

Along the Capricorn Way Mitchell grass lines the road, green at the base to yellow to pale burgundy tipped a valuable grass for pastoralists. 

So much less roadkill than we’ve ever seen due to drought breaking. The Drummond Range is beautiful country - where we lived fir a while on Skye station back in 2013. 

Ilfracombe van park is unexpectedly full due to a mostly women’s group including a singer but the owner found a beautiful grassy corner found for us. Love the Ilfracombe pool and spa!

Queensland Rail boys in cabins beside us. Up fairly late talking and drinking and then gone before 6.00 am. Not much of a life for a young man?

22 April

Ilfracombe to Winton

Matilda Way today. Breakfast and hardware visit in Longreach. It feels as vibrant and resilient as ever. 100 centenary of Qantas means VIPS eg Alan Joyce visiting Longreach and Winton where Qantas was founded. Much about this on local ABC radio. 

Not happy to find battery power not working after setting up camp behind North Gregory Hotel. Can’t even work the water pump and toilet without it. Also bloody hot. 

Moved to Tattersalls Hotel van park with power to identify the issue. Omegelec charger not working.  Service guy in Mt Isa will advise and refer to auto electrician if need be. Meanwhile Colin working it all out in his clever head. 

Mr Searle of Searles Hardware at Winton was ‘out to lunch’. We’ve heard that before 😂. Didn’t get back to try again. We love to hear the local news from him but missed out this time.

23, 24 April

Winton  to Mount Isa

Highlight along the way was Walkabout Hotel at McKinlay used for Croc Dundee. 

At a pit stop We meet ‘Travelling  tribe,’ a young family home schooling while they travel. 

Our song for today is Jimmy buffet - I’d rather die while I’m living than live while I’m dead. 

First termite nests sighted this trip. I’m sure there will be many more. Not many dressed up this trip. No one here to do it.  

Good road conditions. Mostly 110k limit. We do about 95k most of the time. Relatively little traffic. Plenty of chick’n ‘awks. 

Wikipedia:

‘Mount Isa is a city in the Gulf Country region of Queensland, Australia.[3] It came into existence because of the vast mineral deposits found in the area. Mount Isa Mines (MIM) is one of the most productive single mines in world history, based on combined production of lead, silver, copper and zinc.[4]

The land around the present day city of Mount Isa was home to the Kalkadoon aboriginal tribe. The Kalkadoon tribe led a subsistence lifestyle on this land that the white settlers looked at as nothing but poor grazing land, with the odd mineral deposit. As settlers and prospectors pressed further into their lands the Kalkadoon tribe members set out on one of Australia's most successful guerrilla wars in a fight for their lands. Their success continued until at Battle Mountain in 1884, with what some historians have called a rush of blood, the tribe attacked a fortified position in large numbers and suffered terrible losses. The weakened state of the tribe made their land more vulnerable to the settlers and soon much of the land was lost. Armed patrols chasing the surviving tribe members and poor grazing lands for the settlers made times hard in the area over the following decades.’

Pleasant drinks with Penny and Paul (mathematicians), Averil and Glen, and Peter and his dog 18 year old Misty 18. The two couples are heading to WA so we will likely see them again. 

The servicing of our van wheel bearings and brakes went well. Good recommendation from a fellow Jurgenite. 

25 April Mt Isa to ‘somewhere along the

Barkly Highway’The only populated places are Camooweal and Barkly Homestead.  Camp spots are bores and radio towers. Similar country to before Mt Isa. WW2 historical sites, bituminised road for war supply transport 

Crossed into NT just after Camooweal. First 130k speed limit sign. We just kept going for an easy 8 hour drive toThree Ways. Too hot to stop without power for aircon. Colin is excited as we’ve had the wind on our tail so we should get good mileage. 

26 AprilBanka Banka

Very gusty day  expected with crosswind so only 74 k up the Stuart Highway today to Banka Banka Station. Cows can wander on the highway hereabouts. Seen one dead. Haven’t seen a live roo on this trip so far except for the mob that lived at Hidden Valley farm, Yandina. Same story with emus. 

Banka Banka Station is alive with birds. Galahs, crows, peewits, Willy wagtail like bids (twitcher cousin Beth knows their name), two old donkeys and several horses in the paddocks, a woman walking her little brown dachshund.  In fact it is simply alive. Two brothers play-fighting with pool noodles, growling fiercely at each other. Dad joining the fun, a happy travelling family. Earlier these three were cavorting under the sprinkler. All this I absorb from under the awning. It’s a hot day but a strong wind keeps it cool enough to sit outside away from the aircon in the van.  A variety of trees around us including a boab we are told will glow like metal later in the day. 
Off to explore the waterhole - a 2.5 k walk. Beautiful. Having company on the way was great. 


A huge circle of happy campers around the campfire. Our dinner cooked over it. Sublime sitting outside under the annex with a full moon in view making the trees sparkle. 
 Banka Banka Station fabulous. Waterhole, bar, huge fire circle. Perfect.This is our best camping experience so far this trip. 

27 April Banka Banka to Daly Waters. 

Starting to feel a little concerned re getting into parks in WA. We need to make some phone calls to tourist Info centres and parks to book some blocks of time in key places. Caught up with Averil and Greg (Mt Isa) here. 

28-29 AprilBitter Springs, MatarankaOne of our all-time favourite places to experience the springs of NT. A short walk out of our van park to the crystal clear spring-fed river that floats you gently down to where you climb out, walk back and do it all again. The path has been paved since we were last here in 2013 making it an easier walk back. Lovely to meet a couple of fellow Jurgens owners Peter and Warren in our park. We knew from our Jurgens Facebook group they were around somewhere in the NT. 

30 April to 2 MayKatherine

Lovely spot to relax for a few days. We love this van park and have fond memories of being there with our friends and neighbours Edna and Karl back in 2013. Unplanned reunion as we headed to Darwin and they returned from their big loop in WA. We enjoyed a great Italian meal here. 

A day trip to Edith Falls was fabulous. The waterfalls are strong after a good Wet season. Devonshire tea at the kiosk - how wonderful. 


We got some great tips from a WA man in the pool including Roebuck Roadhouse for accomodation at Broome. 

Acquaintances of years, Sue and Warwick Hoban, arrived in the same park. We had bumped into them at Charters Towers back in 2018. Amazing! It was lovely to chat over early morning coffee at our van. Colin fixed the van emergency brakes which needed a new switch. He identifies and fixes every little issue that turns up with great equanimity. 

3 May 

Katherine to Timber Creek

We are going west with the morning sun behind us on the Victoria Highway. For the first time this trip we are on a road never travelled by us. New territory. It’s exciting. 

Luminous salmon Gums. Very different looking mountains. Iron in he rocks. Dark red escarpments covered in green at top 

Passing Boats being towed back the other way to Katherine etc after fishing comp at Timber Creek. Lots of recent slow burns along the highway before dry season 

Freshie in this last pic. Hope you can see it. Blogger is rather clunky for blogging but I’m stuck with it for now. 
We hope all our readers are well and enjoying life wherever they are. 

Off to the Isa

Monday 19 April. 

We are feeling very sad to leave Kerryn and Olivia today. We have had a wonderful time with them on the Sunshine Coast. Olivia is back to school today. We hope she makes the transition from an action-packed and emotional school holiday period. We swear she has grown considerably in the six weeks we have been here. Lovely age and she’s a fabulous kid, if occasionally a bit Jeckle and Hyde with her moods. 

Cooroy No Worries RV park and Hidden Valley macadamia farm are two fabulous new finds for us to return to next time we bring the van up here. Norbut the emu was a great source of laughter at Hidden Valley. Colin thought he had made a hit with Norbut putting his head over Colin’s shoulder and kneeling down. Turns out it’s breeding season 😂🤣. Norbut set fire to his feathers reaching over someone’s gas stove to grab bacon and eggs.

The Burnett Highway takes us to Biloela once we leave the Bruce Highway soon after Gympie. It feels good to be getting going on our long caravanning odyssey and into the routine of daily driving and exploration. Towns today include Gaynda, Eidsvold and Monto.

The scenery today is characterised by undulating  land supporting grain crops, and pasture for lots of poddie calves. Farmers are clearly restocking their cattle herds this year. 

We enjoy the quieter roads and the healthy bright greens of the paddocks and bush visibly benefitting from recent heavy rains. There is evidence of both fires and floods,  including bridges being built higher above rivers that had flooded and closed major roads. Also sadly, closures of small businesses in little towns such as Kilkivan, no doubt due to COVID impact on movement and tourism. 

Clear dry weather is pleasant after the humidity back near the coast. Warmer days and cooler, drier nights. 

Tuesday 20 April

Our stay at Queensland Heritage Park Biloela has been peaceful. In the morning bebore we leave we take a look at and a sniff 🧐 of the historical collection housed at the former Biloela Railway Station.we are travelling north on the Leichhardt Highway till we turn west onto the Capricorn. Familiar territory as we head to Emerald for the night. Emerald was our nearest town when we volunteered at Skye station in 2013. Only three hours to do a big shop or go to the dentist! Our seven year old distance education student is now a tall 15 year old and his sister a lovely young woman finishing high school. 

The landscape palette has changed to eucalyptus blues and yellow to cream grasses. The occasional glimpse of red earth. Waterways are full which is great after years of drought in the Capricorn region. Towns we pass include Duaringa, (gateway to Central Queensland Highlands, oldest town here and named after a type of Strinybark), Dingo (on the junction of the highways), Blackwater (coal - tons of it, enormously long coal trains over 3 k taking it to Gladstone) and Comet (named after its river and boasting an art school).  Everything is super-sized. The road trains, trains and machinery (See the grader on the back of truck). 

2021 Wilkinson’s Wander in WA

It’s 16 February 2021 and we are gearing up to leave for Queensland in a couple of weeks.  The title of this blog is optimistic as we may be stopped in any state if borders close on us. We hope to make it across the border to NSW and then QLD between COVID Lockdowns.

Our original plan was to do the big loop this year going via South Australia. However now, thanks to the COVID pandemic, it’s been over 18 months since we’ve seen our precious daughter and granddaughter who live at Eumundi, QLD. We will spend quite a while with them in what has become a second home town. Catching up with other family and friends in QLD will be lovely too.  

 From Eumundi we will head northwest via Longreach, Winton, Mt Isa and Katherine before we turn to the west and the Kimberley.

The usual arrangements for securing the home and our furry family and having catch-ups with family and friends here are underway as well as preparing the van and truck for the journey. Oh and ourselves with a plethora of medical/dental checks. Everything is in best working order so we can enjoy and come home safe and sound. 

I haven’t written a blog since our 2013 voyages on SS Delphian in Indonesia and Malaysia with Cec and John. I am inspired to write one again as I read our yachtie friend Jacquie Hope’s wonderful book ‘Just me at sea’. She sailed around the world singlehanded. We are just travelling on land two-up. 

This trip will have some unique challenges such as many more caravanners on the road than usual, including lots of newbies, and possible border and quarantine issues. We will have to plan ahead and book more than usual, especially during school holidays. We are fully selfcontained so free camping is the norm. 

Greater distances and less internet range require extension of communication options to UHF radio. 

Having said all that, our aim is to have another huge adventure and lots of fun meeting plenty of  travellers and local characters along the way and enjoying the incredible sights and experiences this country has to offer. 

Hope you enjoy sharing. 

Episode 3 family time at Eumundi

The Eumundi Showgrounds are a great spot to camp and very handy to town but limited to three nights at a time. So after an explore on WikiCamps we find this little gem - Cooroy No Worries RV Stop. Big sites with blue stone (so no puddles), squares of real grass to put pegs in for annexes and artificial grass to step out onto. Beautiful gardens and a lake with lily pads. Lots of undercover relaxation and communal cooking spaces. 

Our days start meeting Kerryn and Olivia at one of the favourite coffee spots where we chat with locals of all ages, and Olivia plays with friends in the park before they head over the road to start school. The usual chores, shopping, reading and visits to local towns and attractions fill our days until we take turns to read to Olivia at bed time. We find it’s easier to go back to our van to sleep so two humans and five animals at Kerryn’s can keep in routine. 

Our truck has been easily recognised in town by the blue kayak on top and Olivia’s red canoe on top of that. Her canoe has come down now and she has successfully had a paddle on the river at Noosaville. We had hoped she would be down for lots of visits to Mount Martha to use it at our bay beaches but sadly COVID has prevented that so now it will stay in Eumundi. 

We are off for a few days to Brisbane to see our Vanuatu friend Ann and then Colin’s cousin Liz at the Gold Coast. 

Home to Eumundi

https://1drv.ms/w/s!Amm_IeBz1qTKiF1DoMoMdH2Fqtqp

Sailing

I have recounted joyful meetings with new friends made in the exotic places we have journeyed to but I would be remiss not to record fond memories of some of our fellow sailors and adventurers. 

We had people of over 20 nationalities on the Sail Indonesia rally. Many live on their yachts and sail from port to port and rally to rally. Some retain a home base. The siren call of the world's seas, peoples and destinations is powerful. They cope with the wear and tear on their boats and sometimes themselves with a lot of endurance, mutual support and hard learnt skills.  Shared tours, meals and happy hours are a source of fascinating stories about previous lives and tales of the high seas.  We have shared companionable times peppered with hilarity, in sweltering heat, rainstorms, squeezed into small vehicles, in a phalanx of motorcycles far up into mountains and lakes, in local people's homes as honoured guests, at a wedding celebration at very close quarters with the marrying couples. These experiences bind and make for lasting friendships. 

Standing on a stage with a bunch of fellow sailors singing Rod Stewart's "Sailing" to a couple of thousand excited villagers at Beriga village, Bangka ....

The deep, maple syrup mellow gentlemanly tones of Canadian Gary of Inspiration Lady on the Net or giving a speech on behalf of Sail Indonesia participants at Lovina, Bali .......... Sorry Janice but the women of the fleet fell in love with your husband's voice :)

Julian from Tropic Bird (with raunchy figurehead) and his crew of attractive young American couples Omar and Alison, Matthew and Rhiannon backpacking their way and staying onshore at the various destinations. Julian has written a book called "I should have stayed on the train ..." or similar about his travel adventures ...

Lyn and Chris of Out of the Blue ll out of Southport. Known to our Southport friends Lea and Geoff of Nestasea (small world), our hosts for an Equator crossing celebration at anchor at Kentor and fellow diners at our last dinner in Malaysia .....

USA couple Jason and Karen of Yolo often attended tours and events. Tall lanky drole Jason speaking for participants at Bangka striding leisurely down the hill in front of the delighted spectators around him and taking two steps at a time up onto the stage on his long legs clothed in bright yellow shorts - reminiscent of John Cleese moves.  Karen was into everything, especially if it was edible. She accompanied me visiting Sylia the guide's grandmothers house in town at Bangka where she managed to obtain free bananas and a pineapple ;)

Karen enjoying the honey at Bangka

Karen and I trying fairy floss or cotton candy at Bangka

A group of us at Dyak house at Pankalan Bun. Jason talking to Colin. 

Helene and Peter of Vallely (home marina Yuringa, Westernport Bay, Victoria) also diligently attended cultural events put on for us. Peter danced beside Colin at Belitung .....

Janice and Mick of Zoa of Perth WA. Mick's skills were very welcome in diagnosing a thankfully small and easily fixed fault in Delphian's generator (or Geni affectionately called). Mick was an electrician employed at Woodside for years. Janice makes very clever use of discarded sailcloth to make handbags and carry bags.  I will share her website with you. They joined us for dinner at a Danga Bay steamboat restaurant. 

Janice of Zoa

Water Musik's USA family Bill, Becky and three children Joey, Raymond and Melodie, while not officially part of our fleet, were welcome fellow travellers. Bill would swing the spinnaker pole out over the water for his kids, often joined by some local children, to swing out and into the water.  Bill had a three year stint as a dentist in Alaska to look forward to next ....

Young Melanie and

Bill and Raymond at wedding feast

 

Crews of Water Musik and Tropic Bird at Bintan Chinese seafood restaurant

Katrina and Ken of Watusi out of Townsville ... Also not part of the fleet but good company at Belitung and Bintan ....

Dutch couple Yann and Marielle of Avanta have chosen to live in their retirement on Malta when they are not sailing around the world. She is an educator with background working with people with disabilities. He is a highly knowledgable person with a career in chemistry and one of the wiser, more grounded and experienced sailors. We got to know them better on the bus tour at Bangka. 

Yann, Marielle and Lyn feasting at village chiefs house, Beriga

Cheryl and Phil of Adagio endured a broken motor and the stress of being towed through the Singapore Straits, a brave feat successfully undertaken by John and Pam in Allicat. Memories of a dark bar in Lovina and a high school graduate party ....

Gail and Bill on Kularoo were often keen to initiate get togethers and expeditions.  

Jon, Irina and Mark of Footloose shared time in the rain on a public holiday at Belitung. They worried about hatches left open. 

Mick popular with the ladies 

Terry of Sylvia May and his wife Jenny who is a Malay Chinese from Singapore often helped with communication Bahasa Malay being fairly similar to Bahasa Indonesian. Jenny had exacting standards which sometimes caused a smile or two ....

German couple Brent and his wife of Elbe were often on tours with us. We had a near incident when their boat was anchored within our anchor chain range and the weather turned stormy at Belitung. Fast work by all and our up-anchoring and moving avoided a certain collision. 

Canadians Gene and Sheri of Reflections shared a taxi with Cecilie and I at Danga Bay one one of our many shopping sprees. Gene has great skill in sourcing meat and other foods by identifying and visiting restaurant suppliers. Sheri was one of the regular posters on the Sail Indonesia website. 

Others we became acquainted with (apologies for any I have forgotten) included 

- Austrian Christophe of Eva 

- Peter and Lisa of Niccone

- Calypso, a South Africal boat we left Bintan with

- USA Virginia and Denis from Libertad another professional and easy on the ear voice on the daily Net

- USA Mike of Nahanni whose gearbox broke at Kumei meaning sailing only all the way to Danga Bay

- Wendy and Stephan of Juliana ll

- Janina and Dean of Tropic Soul

- Maure and ... of Irish yacht Soal Elle

We were also happy to meet in Bali the former crew of Delphian, Marilyn Graham who lives in Hobart and is author of Coastal Cruising Companion (see advertised on Skipr.net) and Tricia Wallace-Smith who lives Mooloolaba and is occasionally seen at SYC on a Friday night as an ex-member :). 

Last but not least will we ever forget the mahogany brown tanned, fit, brown-eyed John Sloan our host. My companion on watch, happy to share stories of teaching days and Melbourne and country Victoria or to enjoy easy silences in that semi trance like state one feels when no hazards are around and the magic of the movement of the boat through the sea and the night weaves it's spell. John enduring the incredible heat of the engine room when mechanical matters needed attending to. Our hat is off to him as a master sailor. 

And Cecilie who is so nimble and strong, quick thinking and alert to the needs of the boat and of us.  Cook extraordinaire. Making sure we are up with the affairs of the world, the latest books and initiator of many highly stimulating philosophical,educational, technology and political conversations. A source of attraction to people of other lands with her long blond hair, big blue eyes and attractive figure and tropical apparel.  Her never-ending curiosity and energy in engaging locals in conversation - often leading further to visits to schools, homes for meals and the development of deeper understandings of the cultures we experienced.  We were so fortunate to find so much in common and to enjoy the company of these two lovely people and so privileged to be invited to share travels aboad their beautiful Delphian.  

Six weeks flew like Delphian under sail in 25 knots. 

Until next time :)))

Developing Malaysia and manicured sophisticated and somewhat regimented Singapore

Malaysia is developing. Very fast!   330k sq kilometers in area. Population close to 30m. Johor Bahru in the South where we are is a place of contrast. Old and new alongside. Many more highways than we have, super well-run train system including underground, plenty of "bas" and "teksi" at very reasonable cost. 

Varied housing from working class shacks, dormitory style blocks, through levels of middle quality to mansions and palaces. Reminders in abandoned building complexes of a previous economic collapse when German investment came to a sudden halt. Ethnic groups include Chinese 28% Malay 50% Indian 7% Indigenous 11% others of mainly European and Asian backgrounds living alongside each other.  Colour, noise, activity. Forget weekends and holidays. Indonesia was the same. They are on the upwards development track and they know it. We feel it. Education is everything. 

Shopping is national pastime. Large centres vary from outdoor markets to kmart style to Southland/Chadstone style and then the up-market Daimaru like. Most Malaysian women possess a black belt in shopping.  One reason is the centres are air conditioned  but also there is money despite the ringat being one third the value of AUD.  

They also know how to party. Halloween was a fun experience at our bar on the marina.  Every night there is music. 

Colin and I had a long day out visiting Singapore. We taxied to the city centre where we picked up a Singapore taxi allowed to take us to Singapore across the Causeway and on to the zoo. At the border our passports were checked and stamped. We have tourist visas now to travel in and out for 30 days. 

Singapore zoo was fantastic. We bought a 30 day ticket covering the main zoo and its feeding and educational activities, the river safari, the tram and the night safari. We used all except the night safari that day. Lots of walking.  The River safari is relatively new and has exceptional aquarium type facilities where the river systems of the world are on display including the Murray. 

White tigers

White rhinos incredibly close to us

Large enclosures where we walk amongst inhabitants. 

Komodo dragon

Polar bear so close we could touch paws

It was here we met a lovely Singaporese woman and her children and learnt better ways to move around and places to go. Off to Chinatown to explore and eat. Found a place favoured by the locals - Hong Kong Street Fish-head Steamboat. Excellent and very cheap. 

Home by MRT (metro rapid transport) bus and taxi. $70 to Singapore, $12 to get home :). It does take longer and you have to jump on and off the bus a couple of times to pass back through both Singapore and Malaysia Immigration. All good fun and 800k Malaysians do it every day. 150k motorbikes cross the Causeway every day at $4 each way. 

Diwaly is the festival of light in the Hindu religion. Equivalent to Christmas. Beautiful clothes bought by families for the occasion. I tried a few on but nothing to fit. We went to the Hindu temple in city central which had stalls and activities around it. 

Very beautiful and a spiritual experience. We met a lovely young couple who explained some aspects of the festival and Hindu religion to us and advised we visit the only crystal temple in the world nearby. We were so glad we did. Here there was only us and a Chinese family other than the locals. We were made very welcome and watched the religious rites taking place including blessings. The music, chanting and acoustics were wonderful. 

Interesting story to this place and the community program run from it led by a former teacher.  Sounds, smells, sights so foreign and yet what strikes us is the similarity of the stories and values running through all the religions we are experiencing. In this place there are statues of Jesus, Buddha and Mother Theresa as well as Hindu notables. Makes you wonder. 

After we wander down back streets and catch buses to see further afield than the city around us. 

Cecilie and John are already planning the next year's travelling and visitors to join them and saying they won't have time for this or that along the way. We think they will be here for several years. So much to see and do and often so inexpensive to live.  We look forward to more travels with them and hearing about their adventures. 

A last dinner at our excellent Italian restaurant. The chef trained in Singapore and one of the 5 star hotels for six years. Joined by Lyn and Chris of Out of the Blue ll. They live and travel on their catamaran as do a number of the Sail Indonesia fleet. 

So today is our last day in Malaysia and on the beautiful Delphian. Goodbye to the sounds of the Mullahs in the fresh early morning and the small cats with their crooked truncated tails, the daily storms that allow us to quickly fill the tanks and drinking water containers and thunder violently right over us. 

The four of us are off for two nights in a hotel in Singapore then back to Australia for Colin and I. It will be sad to leave this incredible highly emotional and spiritual journey through Asia. Life culminates in unexpected ways and places. We have woven strong threads with those we love through Canberra, Queensland, the outback, Northern Territory and Asia.

And the women are still strong, the men good looking and the children above average at Camp Wilkinson.