Bangka

2301 nautical miles from Darwin. Expect to get to Equator tomorrow in 80 NM at an island called  Kentar around sunrise 22 October 2013. Champagne!

Here we are motoring along steadily on calm seas at night. Have regretfully left Bangka en route to Bintan. Thunderstorms playing around us. Full moon hiding behind the clouds. Plenty of ships as we cross the busy shipping lanes going north, traffic coming from Singapore. The usual fishing boats and "squiddies" to keep us on the lookout ncluding the odd one without lights.  Good time to write the blog. 

So how did you go with guessing what Du Dul is? It is a confection made from coconut, rice, palm sugar, flavouring and rolled in a log about 8cm by 30cm and wrapped in glad wrap. Sliced its delicious for dessert. It does look rather like a couple of other things reminiscent of its name to an English ear. Cousin Lizzie hinted at 33%. 

Every place we go we say it can't get better than this. Well Bangka has done it again. First impressions were not great as the anchorage was very rolly and we were affected by fumes from the diesel of a fishing boat anchored near by. The water seemed very milky and not appealing to swim in. Some yachts departed immediately next morning despite Sam arriving in his Indonesial sailboat and asking them to stay.  This was a great shame as the weather settled, the sea became a mill pond and cleared, the friendliest people so far here and the treats they provided were just incredible. It was a shame for the people of Bangka and the organisers that only ten yachts came to this event and 7 stayed for all the activities provided. 

There appeared to be little there as we arrived on the beach in our rubber duck. Just a couple of sheds with tables, some bins for rubbish and a half built stage - again first impressions of the village of Beriga were deceiving. We have learnt to have faith in Sam, the Sail Indonesia rally leader, and in each committee in the places we visit to provide something unique, surprising and often overwhelming in each destination. The children and indeed all the villagers were keen to say hello and get close to us. Hello Mister. Like most places since Bali westerners are rarely seen. 

Sam sailed this boat with two others from East Belitung to Bangka. Now sailing to Bintan can do 8 to 9 knots. 

A bus was waiting to take us to Koba, the nearest town, for shopping and sightseeing. Our guides Robby and Rahmat from the tourism department and volunteers Edi and Sylvia took us through the island pointing out the tin mining areas- devastation - the rubber, palm oil and pepper plantations.

In town we visited the Chinese temple. There are a large number of Chinese descendants living here alongside the Malays. Islam is the predominant religion. The frescoes and statues in the temple were quite confronting in their violence, depicting Hell and Heaven and the three gods - the wise one, the war god and protector, and the lady. 

Kerryn from Yolo showing how big the candles are n front of the lady.

Hell.

Heaven. 

Jason from Yolo checking his name is not on the register to go to Hell. 

Once the food and fuel purchase had been made on this six hour trip we return to find the scene had been set for the festival. We were asked to visit the homes of the village chief and two others. These were substantial homes with tiled floors, lavish furniture and bathrooms which we were invited to use during our stay in the village. 

At each we were offered nibbles and drinks and asked to pose for photos - this can be hard work when it is so incredibly hot and humid and people are crowding around to greet you.  Always  a crowd of spectators.  We four were invited to dinner at the Head-man's house with Sam and the Mnister for Tourism. Pinkie snapper cooked on coals beside the front verandah. 

This village would have welcomed us sleeping over in their houses.  Then we were ushered to our seats of honour under the newly built pavilion to look across a small grassy valley to the entertainment stage with the sea as backdrop. A perfect position to enjoy the show and to be part of it as we responded to invitations to sing or dance.  

This was the first of three evenings of performances from a number of villages in Central Bangka region competing for recognition and monetary prizes. Requests for photos were constant with the occasional policeman or soldier shooing the people away so we could have a rest. The police who visited our yacht for photos explained that 40 extra had been brought in for the occasion. Their presence was obvious yet unobtrusive they seem to maintain order quietly without show of force. 

Next morning John and Cec handd out pencils, notepads and lollipops. 

On Saturday Cec and John did some boat maintenance. Colin and I again boarded a bus for a tour.  The children saw us off. Hundreds of them :)

This time we went into the forest to see bees being smoked out to collect the honey. Some of us got stung. We were given honey drink, corn, boiled peanuts for morning tea. 

Cheers!  Harris was also the MC and translator for the entertainment. 

Then we went to the honey store where we were given a piece of honeycomb, some extra honey -madu- poured on top and a piece of cassava to eat it with. More cold honey juice to refresh. Yum!!  

A walk in the steamy forrest to see the red trunked Pelawan trees where special mushrooms grow that dried fetch $100 US a kilo. They come out when the lightening comes - later we treated to traditional lunch including these mushrooms. 

Young Raymond from Water Musik. He and brother Joey are very popular with the Indonesian girls and getting less shy every day!

We were treated to a traditional Bangka meal unique to the bee area. This was enjoyed in a meeting house on stilts in the middle of paddy fields where red rice another specialty of the area is grown. We were told we were extremely privileged to be given such a meal by this village chief. It was extremely spicy so some of us struggled to eat much of it but the hospitality was wonderful. 

On the way home an unexpected treat was a visit for Chris and Lyn from Out of the Blue ll Colin and I four of us to Robby's home where we spent time with his wife, son and nine month twin daughters. 

Check these two in their island shirts. 

Sunday the best was yet to come. Incoming were mountain bike riders from Jakarta and elsewhere in the Tour de Bangka. Like us they were in a rally and donating fruit trees to the local community. 

The main attraction however was a mass wedding. 36 couples formalised their marriages. Early we were invited to visit the house where the brides make-up was being done. 

Next door the decorations including hard-boiled eggs in little baskets hanging from paper trees were being prepared.

 We were asked to go and film the wedding procession including a brass band and to join in the procession. Chance for soldiers to get a photo.

The couples in their traditional dress, Muslim or Christian, were seated on a stage with their respective witnesses and celebrants. And can you believe we were asked to join them and sit right beside a couple each to watch the ceremony and have it explained to us? It really felt intrusive and we were embarrassed but it was great kudos for them apparently to have us there. It was very moving. 

Meanwhile Sam makes a quiet escape to head off to Bintan. We glimpse him going by Kentor Island, our next anchorage. 

Finally we were asked to have a special meal "nangeen" prepared by the village women and to sit on the ground eating it in front of the whole village. Had to watch our manners (eating with right hand only) and it was not hard to show much appreciation as it was delicious. We felt guilty eating in front of everyone. We are so rich and they are mostly so poor. 

Finally we were asked to go onstage and sing to honour the brides and grooms. Luckily someone had song words so we sang Yesterday by the Beatles, Sailing by Rod Stewart and finally, (Robby the guides idea ) La Bamba in Spanish.  Followed by dancing, each of us being partnered by a local. Wow!

When all the speeches, singing, dancing and celebrations were over we were all escorted to our respective dingies. At this point everyone wanted a last chance to shake hands and in some cases kiss us. Tears fell on both sides. We left with regret and we wonder how they are feeling today after this festival which is such a rare occasion for them. There will be many pictures to share and yes many of them are on Facebook. 

What will the children remember of this? Some of the little ones were scared of us. Others, like the little girl who befriended me, will remember washing herself all over with my dettol handwash as she sat on my knee and we watched the show together she flicking through the photos on my iPad trying to find the one of me on the beach in my bathers. A source of much fascination to her and the others crowding around us to look. 

After a couple of nights and days sailing and a brief stop to toast crossing the Equator we reach our last destinationof Bintan in Indonesia. This is a resort town and the last event before we check out of Indonesia and make for a marina in Malaysia within easy reach of Singapore. 

Can't believe this magical journey has gone so fast  We are enjoying every moment in such great company. 

A moving journey and a precious touching of cultures

Salamat pagi, good morning family and friends

We leave behind this beautiful island Belitong it's surrounding turquoise waters decorated with multi-coloured granite mini-islands. This island now holds special significance for Colin and I forever. There is one little island that in the distance looks for all the world like a peacefully sleeping spaniel. 

Sorry. Wrong pic. The island is on Colin's camera so will have to wait for that. 

We have seen some incredible and sometimes disturbing performances here - one young sailor goes away with broken skin and welts on his back from participating in the fighting sticks performance. 

The men from Java riding rattan horses who are induced into trances by various means and then have the evil drawn out of them are quite scary. Can't be good for their health and the locals move to the back stalls to make sure they aren't In their path as they start to fit. We were told by guide Madi that they were unconscious and we were seeing their souls. Animism at work!  Meanwhile one of our yachtie companions had her camera almost in their faces! Sigh. Other performances are so beautiful and they put their heart and soul in to give us a special experience. 

We are treated like movie stars everyone greeting us as we move along and wanting photos with us and to talk to us. Few westerners get here. It's only a 45 minute flight from Jakarta and in our view a must-do. 

 So many Australians have only seen Bali and only certain parts of that island or nearby Lombok.  The down sides such as the incessant selling and the ugly tourist do not exist elsewhere in Indonesia that we have seen. 

A highlight of our guided tour here was a visit to a senior high school where we were let loose to join students in their classrooms and teach some English, talk about our country and family, answer varied questions and share photos.

 We talk of the importance for their job chances of speaking English and discuss the issues facing their country and ours. Environment and climate is foremost in their minds. Effective rubbish disposal and protecting native forests being their concerns. Our day started with release of 500 baby Turtles on the beach. 

The Gala dinner here was fantastic with a lovely buffet meal, a very good band and singers who sang western songs as well as local, and some really amazing costumes. This was a professional, well organised event in a beautiful amphitheatre. 

We experienced our first really heavy rain yesterday sitting in a warung in town waiting for the shops to open at 1.00 as it was a Muslim holiday. The people we were with were somewhat concerned, justifiably, as they had left their boat with hatches up.  We got excited as our driver Rosa was going to take us to an Italian delicatessen. Mouths were watering with thoughts of salami, cheese and bread. Alas it was closed for the holiday.  Oh well the thought was nearly as good as the reality. Back to soto Ayam (chicken soup), Nasi Goreng, Mie Goreng, Ikan (fish) ulung (prawn), cumi (calamari), pisan (banana), Bakso (noodle soup), etc etc. 

Can you guess what this is?  It's, called Du Dul. 

Speaking of chicken soup we were asked to sing into the microphone at a dance on stage and we didn't know the words so we sang " I do do do like soto Ayam " which caused hysterics. Later we found out we were being propositioned by our respective partners and were meant to reply in kind :))))

Bridal bed at traditional meeting house, Belitung. 

Back at the beach we met 16 year old Sara whose parents have a tin mining corporation. She later brings and introduces her 21 year old sister Ega who has graduated from uni in politics majoring in international relations. She works for a human rights organisation and had some distressing stories to tell of news brought by visitors from N Korea of people in jail for decades with insufficient food and being invited to eat their children. And of atrocities she heard of in Aceh in the time of occupation there. She has a passion for forensic science and wants to study at Sydney University. She will visit us in Melbourne. When Cec and John return here next April they are invited to fly in the girls parents plane to see the tin mine. I am jealous already :)

It will take an Olympic Games in Indonesia for Australians to begin to appreciate the cultural diversity and character and personality of Indonesia and the way people of different religions live very happily together.  Our view of Muslim people and customs has changed completely.  Meanwhile we are happy to be ambassadors and relationship builders. 

Salamat Malam, good evening

Impressions of Indonesia

It is very peaceful after a big day fare-welling Colin's mother yesterday in our own unique way.  Just as we arrived at Belitung after two days and two nights sailing from Kumei there was what appeared to be what Indonesians call a 'Sailing Pass'. A fleet of decorated boats under sail went right by us full of waving excited people as part of the official welcome to Belitung. This was actually a ceremony to bless their fishing fleet. They release a two metre model boat which they hope will reach Singapore. 

The background scenery to this is the most beautiful and idyllic Colin and I have ever seen. Turquoise water, white sand, palms, granite rock islands. This scene takes our breath away and brings tears to our eyes. This sail past is happening at the same time as family are attending the funeral back home. And then just as the last boat moved past up popped a huge turtle next to the boat waving its flipper. So Bessie was with us too and free at last.   

It is fantastic that we have connectivity to be able to speak to Colin's sister Carol after the service and hear that all went well, Kate and Kerryn said some words including some for us, everyone was ok and they were having fish and chips for dinner.  Phone, emails from all our friends and family and Facebook enable us the feel connected and able to give and take support. Well done Indonesia for excellent broadband coverage anywhere near land. 

Early morning, watching the fishing boats come back in at 5.30 am after 12 hours out. Here at Belitung they all go out one after the other in a flotilla. Another smaller boat goes back and forth close by operated by a pedalo arrangement. One of our fleet heads off to their next destination.  Water so clear I can see a giant starfish moving across the sea-bed. 

So back-tracking in our story. We found Bali much changed from our last visit back in 1997. Kuta and surrounding areas on south side have no appeal. Lovina on north had changed from small fishing village to sizable town. Highlights of Lovina included settling in on Delphian with Cecilie and John. Delphian is a McIntosh 47 sloop.  An nexpected pleasure was meeting British ex-pat Chris and his Balinese wife Yadi. We bumped into them a number of times on the beach, spent time in a favorite warung (cafe) of theirs and were treated to a delightful evening in their home and a gourmet Balinese meal cooked by Yadi. Chris has a sailing past and they were pleased to visit Delphian, Yadi successfully conquering her fear of being sea-sick and enjoying the experience.  Another evening spent in good company with them in a very good Japanese restaurant as a farewell and thank you. As I always say it's the people you meet ..........

Another highlight for me at Lovina was a day ride up the mountains on the back of a scooter driven by our guide for the day. Git Git waterfall, huge Hindu temple compound on a lake and Twin Lakes with 7 other yachties. 

Colin missed this due to an eye infection caused by grit. He got to ride a chariot pulled by a team of bulls at the sapi G..... If you want to see the video you will have to look at Facebook. It's worth it. Can't do videos using the iPad unfortunately.

The pictures that stay in our minds are 

- the cheeky face of the singer I am dancing with on stage singing god knows what words that entertain the Indonesian crowd.  I am handed the microphone and not having a clue what the words are I sing "I love chicken soup " in Indonesian. For which I get lots of laughs and thumbs up. Colin does the same. 

- the frightened faces on the German couple who find themselves about to hit our boat and catch their anchor lines under our rudder and prop. Parked too close to us and we went to full length of our chain in a squall. Quick footwork by all avoided collision and we moved. Awake everyone?

- Excited school students crowding around to ask questions, look at photos and net tact with us in anyway they could

- children in the street wanting today hello, shake hands or high five

- Teenage Girls dancing for us at Belitung, graceful, beautiful and accomplished. We feel privileged

- beady little eyes on big male orang utan Tom who seems to be looking right at you. Does he not like my hat or my white shirt? Whatever it is I a happy to take it off! Colin hiding behind a tree about half his circumference while holding his camera in front of it to try to capture a temper tantrum by big Tom that saw heavy pole seating hurled like matchsticks 

- looking around to find the nearest escape route should one of the animals head my way, head swivelling to make sure one wasn't coming from behind, heart pumping

- mooring at a diving spot at Menjangan on north west corner of Bali with a beautiful white Hindu temple on the point of the land a huge Ganesh statue looking down at us

-traditional meal eaten sitting on floor with fingers

 Menjangan anchorage

Bridal suite in traditional house

 Down river by longboat in Kumei

Gala dinner at Belitung tonight. About 40 yachts here so far. Enjoying Indonesian seafood here.  Indonesia is very different to what we expected and we love the place in all it's variety and especially the people. The press do not convey the reality. 

Well the women are still strong, the men are still good looking and the children are amazing at Camp Wilkinson. Love to all till next time. 

On a sad note

At 3.30pm yesterday Sunday 6 October Colin's mother Elizabeth and my dear mother-in-law Bessie died peacefully at home at age 97 with Colin's sisters Carol, Helen and Lynne at her side. Our daughter Kate was close by and Kerryn arrives fortuitously from Hobart today.

 It is surreal and frustrating, especially for Colin, not to be there supporting his sisters especially Carol and Helen who have lived with Bessie all these years and nursed her through well over ten years of severe illness. We are grieving in this place and we know our daughters will take a strong role in helping as they say their last goodbye too. We knew there was a likelihood that this would happen while we were on this journey. We had a plan agreed before we left that Colin would return if we were still in Australia. Not to be and we now look forward to a memorial service at Maffra on our return. We are beaming our love up and over. This is a release for Bessie and for us all. We remember her as she was in full health, humour and vigour. And all she did for her family in the many years since her husband and our father Jack died. She was proud of her children and grand-children and was a quiet but strong woman. Twinkling blue eyes and a giggle with a wry sense of humour. Love you Bessie. Thank you Pelly and Carol. 

From the dusty dry heat to the tropics

From the Queensland border through the Northern Territory most places to stop end in "springs", "waters", "falls". From Lawn Hill on the Barkly Tableland the underground rivers make their way to NT reappearing at beautiful springs like Bitter Springs at Mataranka.  Jeannie Gunn writes of these in "We of the Never Never" as a respite place after mustering. Stark contrast from the Stone Country we drive through. 

We did meet some interesting get nomad characters along the way.

Everyone is taking about and waiting for the wet in Darwin. Some Caravanners stay for the wet and secure themselves under huge canopies. We met several working at Bunnings for a few months to cover their costs.  Darwin has a buzz about it. It is about to explode with big gas development. Prices are going up, housing developments racing to keep up. This will not be a short term boom and bust as we have seen so many places experience due to mining.  We enjoyed some good company, food and sight seeing here. 

 If we lived in Darwin we would love a house like this. It's a National Trust building. The elderly couple looking after it were delighted to see us and show us around the garden. 

The Mindel and Parap markets were a highlight for the multicultural food. Darwin has bee multicultural for longer than Melbourne and the integration seems much deeper. There are plenty of long term eccentric characters. One hippy type of fellow wearing a long canvas skirt and half-shaven head came into a bank with a huge bag of coins. Over $550 worth. I was tempted to say "you've hit the jackpot" as we'd just been to the casino, but thought better of it. 

The sunset at the Darwin Sailing Cub is spectacular. We were intrigued that locals and their dogs don't seem worried about a dip with the salties. We were told they haven't had one there for 5 months. 

We store the van at a place which is also a cattery. Flying with 5 kilos of cryovacced meat we arrive in Bali to have our luggage waiting for us in the hands of six porters. They even grabbed our handbags so each one could say they carried something. Before we knew it they had run away to a money changer so we could get some rupee to pay them. Somehow they got us out of the terminal without going through customs. We think they slipped someone a tip on the way. So we're not sure if this was a good thing or not but it cost us $20!

One night in Legian was enough. It's like Kuta now and I couldn't wait to get away so we hired a car to Lovina early next morning. It was a pleasant trip. The driver used very colourful English which we're sure he wouldn't have realised is highly offensive. We wound around the high mountains in incredible traffic. It's a bit like a long trip on the Big Dipper. 

We stopped to have special coffee. This is produced by the coffee beans passing through the gut of the lewaks. Possum like critters about the size of a cat.  The coffee was fine and cost $5 a cup. We hear it's extremely dear if you buy it in Australia. We liked some of the ten teas we were given to sample. 

The driver took us a small hotel owned by his cousin. It turned out to be very comfortable and a little way out away from the hustle bustle that is now Lovina so we stayed three nights. $35 per night, pretty standard. 

There are signs all over town about the big Sail Indonesia celebrations. We met some interesting ex-pats. There are many who choose to live here. The climate seems milder than Darwin and it is cheap to live and eat. 

We found Cecilie and John to our delight and started to join in with the yachties from 87 boats and 22 nationalities. Two hours of cultural events were staged last night followed by a welcome dinner.  The locals enjoyed the show too - we think the politicians are throwing money at events like this as an election is coming. 

This little girl was the Shirley Temple of Bali. 

After that we found our way to a bar where we were entertained by teenagers celebrating high school graduation. One could have thought they were graduating from a different kind of school from the dress and behaviour as they pouted for a constant series of camera shots.  Unfortunately we didn't have flash camera. 

Today we go on board. The previous crew members Trisha and Marilyn are very sad to leave after 8 weeks on board but they have found a good hotel so they can see out the festivities this week. 

 A few shots of places and people   

Barkly Tableland and over the border into Northern Territory

Lesson learned. From Mt Isa to Lawn Hill the short dirt corrugated road (250k) takes 7 hours. So does the long road out on bitumen via Burke and Wills roadhouse (750k). Lawn Hill is in Boodjamulla national park - a little bit of paradise in otherwise desert country in the Dry. We selected a perfect spot in the Grove right beside Lawn Creek just metres from the resident Johnson crocodile. You take a tube and float up and down in clear cool water. Water lilies you can see from the roots up in deep water, Birds of many species. 

The croc

Our view

A short drive to the national park early in the morning and up the creek we go in a canoe from the lower to upper gorge. Stunning scenery and delicious swimming near the falls. A highlight of this trip and well worth the extra k's.

A bonus on the trip out was a glimpse of a herd of cattle appearing out of the trees to our side being driven south by two quintessentially garbed drovers. There are a number of herds making up this large drive to the Riverina. An event that has not occurred for decades brought about by drought and fickle overseas markets This image is burned on my psyche.  No pic but I will try to paint it. 

On the way back to the Isa we spent a beautiful night at the deserted ex-town of Mary Kathleen. No neighbours and shooting stars in a perfect temperature after sunset.  Just past Camooweal we cross the border. The road is good and the speed limit goes up to 130k. A couple of stops at free camps Avon Downs (memorable for worst smelling toilets) and Newcastle Waters. Quick visit to drovers quarters museum at Newcastle Waters station.

A drovers life

 Barkly Homestead 

is a well kept road stop on way to the Stuart highway where we stop going west and turn north to our stop for the next stay at Daly Waters Hotel. What a great spot for food, fun and entertainment. Met another VISE teacher working at Sunday Creek station and loving it. 

At beautiful Mataranka we swim at Bitter Springs in the Elsey national park, the Roper River fed by Lawn Creek all the way from the Barkly Tableland. A tropical feeling at the van park here albeit the road remains dry and hot. We travel more hours a day now as the car is more comfortable than the heat. Time to slow down here where we can keep cool though the water temp is 35 degrees.  Jeannie Gunn's "We of the Never Never" was written here from Elsey station where she lived.  I am reading this now and it much more having experienced both the area and cattle station life.  

Up the road in Katherine we meet up with Edna and Karl, our neighbours and very close friends back home. They came via the Nullabor and WA.  What we won't do to have a drink and good times with them! We visit Cutta Cutta caves with them. "Cutta" means star. If you repeat the word it means "many of". 

The aboriginal presence increases and we see places like Cloncurry where integration and good relations is highly valued and proudly emphasised by all locals to places where incredibly poor looking people hang on the outskirts and ask for a six pack. We hear views from fellow travellers based on prejudice rather than knowledge and facts - aboriginal land rights, refugees, non-existence of climate change etc.  - depressing!  We have also heard from people who do know like a nurse in the jail and her husband. Genocide by alcohol to feed local economies. Choosing to go to jail to access medical treatment. 

Edith Falls is another glorious spot in a Nitimiluk national park. Nitimi is a colourful and rare cicada. "Luk" means "place of". Walks and swimming holes here. 

This episode has been late coming. Gone a bit troppo but tales of Darwin and Bali will follow soon.