Impressions of Indonesia

It is very peaceful after a big day fare-welling Colin's mother yesterday in our own unique way.  Just as we arrived at Belitung after two days and two nights sailing from Kumei there was what appeared to be what Indonesians call a 'Sailing Pass'. A fleet of decorated boats under sail went right by us full of waving excited people as part of the official welcome to Belitung. This was actually a ceremony to bless their fishing fleet. They release a two metre model boat which they hope will reach Singapore. 

The background scenery to this is the most beautiful and idyllic Colin and I have ever seen. Turquoise water, white sand, palms, granite rock islands. This scene takes our breath away and brings tears to our eyes. This sail past is happening at the same time as family are attending the funeral back home. And then just as the last boat moved past up popped a huge turtle next to the boat waving its flipper. So Bessie was with us too and free at last.   

It is fantastic that we have connectivity to be able to speak to Colin's sister Carol after the service and hear that all went well, Kate and Kerryn said some words including some for us, everyone was ok and they were having fish and chips for dinner.  Phone, emails from all our friends and family and Facebook enable us the feel connected and able to give and take support. Well done Indonesia for excellent broadband coverage anywhere near land. 

Early morning, watching the fishing boats come back in at 5.30 am after 12 hours out. Here at Belitung they all go out one after the other in a flotilla. Another smaller boat goes back and forth close by operated by a pedalo arrangement. One of our fleet heads off to their next destination.  Water so clear I can see a giant starfish moving across the sea-bed. 

So back-tracking in our story. We found Bali much changed from our last visit back in 1997. Kuta and surrounding areas on south side have no appeal. Lovina on north had changed from small fishing village to sizable town. Highlights of Lovina included settling in on Delphian with Cecilie and John. Delphian is a McIntosh 47 sloop.  An nexpected pleasure was meeting British ex-pat Chris and his Balinese wife Yadi. We bumped into them a number of times on the beach, spent time in a favorite warung (cafe) of theirs and were treated to a delightful evening in their home and a gourmet Balinese meal cooked by Yadi. Chris has a sailing past and they were pleased to visit Delphian, Yadi successfully conquering her fear of being sea-sick and enjoying the experience.  Another evening spent in good company with them in a very good Japanese restaurant as a farewell and thank you. As I always say it's the people you meet ..........

Another highlight for me at Lovina was a day ride up the mountains on the back of a scooter driven by our guide for the day. Git Git waterfall, huge Hindu temple compound on a lake and Twin Lakes with 7 other yachties. 

Colin missed this due to an eye infection caused by grit. He got to ride a chariot pulled by a team of bulls at the sapi G..... If you want to see the video you will have to look at Facebook. It's worth it. Can't do videos using the iPad unfortunately.

The pictures that stay in our minds are 

- the cheeky face of the singer I am dancing with on stage singing god knows what words that entertain the Indonesian crowd.  I am handed the microphone and not having a clue what the words are I sing "I love chicken soup " in Indonesian. For which I get lots of laughs and thumbs up. Colin does the same. 

- the frightened faces on the German couple who find themselves about to hit our boat and catch their anchor lines under our rudder and prop. Parked too close to us and we went to full length of our chain in a squall. Quick footwork by all avoided collision and we moved. Awake everyone?

- Excited school students crowding around to ask questions, look at photos and net tact with us in anyway they could

- children in the street wanting today hello, shake hands or high five

- Teenage Girls dancing for us at Belitung, graceful, beautiful and accomplished. We feel privileged

- beady little eyes on big male orang utan Tom who seems to be looking right at you. Does he not like my hat or my white shirt? Whatever it is I a happy to take it off! Colin hiding behind a tree about half his circumference while holding his camera in front of it to try to capture a temper tantrum by big Tom that saw heavy pole seating hurled like matchsticks 

- looking around to find the nearest escape route should one of the animals head my way, head swivelling to make sure one wasn't coming from behind, heart pumping

- mooring at a diving spot at Menjangan on north west corner of Bali with a beautiful white Hindu temple on the point of the land a huge Ganesh statue looking down at us

-traditional meal eaten sitting on floor with fingers

 Menjangan anchorage

Bridal suite in traditional house

 Down river by longboat in Kumei

Gala dinner at Belitung tonight. About 40 yachts here so far. Enjoying Indonesian seafood here.  Indonesia is very different to what we expected and we love the place in all it's variety and especially the people. The press do not convey the reality. 

Well the women are still strong, the men are still good looking and the children are amazing at Camp Wilkinson. Love to all till next time. 

On a sad note

At 3.30pm yesterday Sunday 6 October Colin's mother Elizabeth and my dear mother-in-law Bessie died peacefully at home at age 97 with Colin's sisters Carol, Helen and Lynne at her side. Our daughter Kate was close by and Kerryn arrives fortuitously from Hobart today.

 It is surreal and frustrating, especially for Colin, not to be there supporting his sisters especially Carol and Helen who have lived with Bessie all these years and nursed her through well over ten years of severe illness. We are grieving in this place and we know our daughters will take a strong role in helping as they say their last goodbye too. We knew there was a likelihood that this would happen while we were on this journey. We had a plan agreed before we left that Colin would return if we were still in Australia. Not to be and we now look forward to a memorial service at Maffra on our return. We are beaming our love up and over. This is a release for Bessie and for us all. We remember her as she was in full health, humour and vigour. And all she did for her family in the many years since her husband and our father Jack died. She was proud of her children and grand-children and was a quiet but strong woman. Twinkling blue eyes and a giggle with a wry sense of humour. Love you Bessie. Thank you Pelly and Carol. 

From the dusty dry heat to the tropics

From the Queensland border through the Northern Territory most places to stop end in "springs", "waters", "falls". From Lawn Hill on the Barkly Tableland the underground rivers make their way to NT reappearing at beautiful springs like Bitter Springs at Mataranka.  Jeannie Gunn writes of these in "We of the Never Never" as a respite place after mustering. Stark contrast from the Stone Country we drive through. 

We did meet some interesting get nomad characters along the way.

Everyone is taking about and waiting for the wet in Darwin. Some Caravanners stay for the wet and secure themselves under huge canopies. We met several working at Bunnings for a few months to cover their costs.  Darwin has a buzz about it. It is about to explode with big gas development. Prices are going up, housing developments racing to keep up. This will not be a short term boom and bust as we have seen so many places experience due to mining.  We enjoyed some good company, food and sight seeing here. 

 If we lived in Darwin we would love a house like this. It's a National Trust building. The elderly couple looking after it were delighted to see us and show us around the garden. 

The Mindel and Parap markets were a highlight for the multicultural food. Darwin has bee multicultural for longer than Melbourne and the integration seems much deeper. There are plenty of long term eccentric characters. One hippy type of fellow wearing a long canvas skirt and half-shaven head came into a bank with a huge bag of coins. Over $550 worth. I was tempted to say "you've hit the jackpot" as we'd just been to the casino, but thought better of it. 

The sunset at the Darwin Sailing Cub is spectacular. We were intrigued that locals and their dogs don't seem worried about a dip with the salties. We were told they haven't had one there for 5 months. 

We store the van at a place which is also a cattery. Flying with 5 kilos of cryovacced meat we arrive in Bali to have our luggage waiting for us in the hands of six porters. They even grabbed our handbags so each one could say they carried something. Before we knew it they had run away to a money changer so we could get some rupee to pay them. Somehow they got us out of the terminal without going through customs. We think they slipped someone a tip on the way. So we're not sure if this was a good thing or not but it cost us $20!

One night in Legian was enough. It's like Kuta now and I couldn't wait to get away so we hired a car to Lovina early next morning. It was a pleasant trip. The driver used very colourful English which we're sure he wouldn't have realised is highly offensive. We wound around the high mountains in incredible traffic. It's a bit like a long trip on the Big Dipper. 

We stopped to have special coffee. This is produced by the coffee beans passing through the gut of the lewaks. Possum like critters about the size of a cat.  The coffee was fine and cost $5 a cup. We hear it's extremely dear if you buy it in Australia. We liked some of the ten teas we were given to sample. 

The driver took us a small hotel owned by his cousin. It turned out to be very comfortable and a little way out away from the hustle bustle that is now Lovina so we stayed three nights. $35 per night, pretty standard. 

There are signs all over town about the big Sail Indonesia celebrations. We met some interesting ex-pats. There are many who choose to live here. The climate seems milder than Darwin and it is cheap to live and eat. 

We found Cecilie and John to our delight and started to join in with the yachties from 87 boats and 22 nationalities. Two hours of cultural events were staged last night followed by a welcome dinner.  The locals enjoyed the show too - we think the politicians are throwing money at events like this as an election is coming. 

This little girl was the Shirley Temple of Bali. 

After that we found our way to a bar where we were entertained by teenagers celebrating high school graduation. One could have thought they were graduating from a different kind of school from the dress and behaviour as they pouted for a constant series of camera shots.  Unfortunately we didn't have flash camera. 

Today we go on board. The previous crew members Trisha and Marilyn are very sad to leave after 8 weeks on board but they have found a good hotel so they can see out the festivities this week. 

 A few shots of places and people   

Barkly Tableland and over the border into Northern Territory

Lesson learned. From Mt Isa to Lawn Hill the short dirt corrugated road (250k) takes 7 hours. So does the long road out on bitumen via Burke and Wills roadhouse (750k). Lawn Hill is in Boodjamulla national park - a little bit of paradise in otherwise desert country in the Dry. We selected a perfect spot in the Grove right beside Lawn Creek just metres from the resident Johnson crocodile. You take a tube and float up and down in clear cool water. Water lilies you can see from the roots up in deep water, Birds of many species. 

The croc

Our view

A short drive to the national park early in the morning and up the creek we go in a canoe from the lower to upper gorge. Stunning scenery and delicious swimming near the falls. A highlight of this trip and well worth the extra k's.

A bonus on the trip out was a glimpse of a herd of cattle appearing out of the trees to our side being driven south by two quintessentially garbed drovers. There are a number of herds making up this large drive to the Riverina. An event that has not occurred for decades brought about by drought and fickle overseas markets This image is burned on my psyche.  No pic but I will try to paint it. 

On the way back to the Isa we spent a beautiful night at the deserted ex-town of Mary Kathleen. No neighbours and shooting stars in a perfect temperature after sunset.  Just past Camooweal we cross the border. The road is good and the speed limit goes up to 130k. A couple of stops at free camps Avon Downs (memorable for worst smelling toilets) and Newcastle Waters. Quick visit to drovers quarters museum at Newcastle Waters station.

A drovers life

 Barkly Homestead 

is a well kept road stop on way to the Stuart highway where we stop going west and turn north to our stop for the next stay at Daly Waters Hotel. What a great spot for food, fun and entertainment. Met another VISE teacher working at Sunday Creek station and loving it. 

At beautiful Mataranka we swim at Bitter Springs in the Elsey national park, the Roper River fed by Lawn Creek all the way from the Barkly Tableland. A tropical feeling at the van park here albeit the road remains dry and hot. We travel more hours a day now as the car is more comfortable than the heat. Time to slow down here where we can keep cool though the water temp is 35 degrees.  Jeannie Gunn's "We of the Never Never" was written here from Elsey station where she lived.  I am reading this now and it much more having experienced both the area and cattle station life.  

Up the road in Katherine we meet up with Edna and Karl, our neighbours and very close friends back home. They came via the Nullabor and WA.  What we won't do to have a drink and good times with them! We visit Cutta Cutta caves with them. "Cutta" means star. If you repeat the word it means "many of". 

The aboriginal presence increases and we see places like Cloncurry where integration and good relations is highly valued and proudly emphasised by all locals to places where incredibly poor looking people hang on the outskirts and ask for a six pack. We hear views from fellow travellers based on prejudice rather than knowledge and facts - aboriginal land rights, refugees, non-existence of climate change etc.  - depressing!  We have also heard from people who do know like a nurse in the jail and her husband. Genocide by alcohol to feed local economies. Choosing to go to jail to access medical treatment. 

Edith Falls is another glorious spot in a Nitimiluk national park. Nitimi is a colourful and rare cicada. "Luk" means "place of". Walks and swimming holes here. 

This episode has been late coming. Gone a bit troppo but tales of Darwin and Bali will follow soon. 

Moving on. The north west passage to Darwin begins.

When we left Skye station there were signs of rain. Springs running, ants building nests, echidnas around. Fingers crossed. Time for us to relax now after six weeks working. Hard leaving as we loved our students and their extended family and community but the adventure continues.  We felt appreciated and we are grateful for all we have learned and experienced with them.

The kids had a very successful art exhibition on Friday evening at our quarters which provided a chance for all to enjoy a heart-lifting occasion.  Here is their work on display. They spoke confidently and knowledgably to the assembled  audience about their subjects and techniques. 

Colin and June from New Zealand, from whom we bought our Avan, were pleased to see us at Sapphire and to inspect the van at her brother Kevin's place. We gave them a NZ flag and black and white hat they left in the van. They have a terrific new van - paramount delta limited edition. We have first offer when they sell in a few years ;). Saw ten barrow loads of dirt brought up from the mine in their front yard turn into a very small handful of sapphires.  Perfect spot to camp on a hill. 

Now at Winton via Longreach behind the N Gregory hotel and we are delighted to find there is a big dinner on and old Australian film to watch in open air theatre. Tomorrow a Vic Variety Club Bash hits town. Echuca to Broome. So we will have entertainment.  The hotel is preparing extra tables. 

Best of all we visit Searle's shop which sells just about everything - hardware, menswear, toys, kitchenware, fishing gear. Old Mr Searle, who used to be young Mr Searle when his Dad owned the shop,  is a source of local knowledge.  I ask if he knows Charlie who we saw in the Eildon Park, Winton team competing in the bronco branding at the R M Williams Muster at Longreach Ag College last year. Charlie was a very fit, tall and handsome man of 87 who rode like a 27 year old. He was deaf so his teammates had to get eye contact to tell him when to stop rounding up cows for branding. Wish I had a close-up photo of him to paint.  Anyway Mr Searles said "there's his hat".  Sure enough there it was hanging from the ceiling along with many others belonging to local identities. I remember that hat - they are all distinctive.  See the one with white label. 

The sad part is Charlie Rayment died 26 July of cancer. Before he died he wrote a letter to the editor of the local paper. It was in reply to another letter in July 2013 and was about a fair option for refugees. He remembered refugee's input in post WW2 era to western shires in QLD. They were required to spend two years working on projects of national importance. This gave them a chance to mingle with locals and learn their language and culture. Many were single and educated.  He said it gave them some breathing space to settle their nerves after the hell of the Holocaust. Many married Aussie girls and are now proud Australians. 

 I wish I had met this wise and clearly caring and practical man. And how's that for a decent policy idea?   

Sitting under the gazebo in the middle of the Main Street of Winton waiting for 80 vintage cars to roll into town and join us at the back of the hotel. 360 to be catered for tonight. Here's the first one. 

The variety bash party was fantastic. We were lucky to be allowed to participate as we were already resident at the hotel ie camped behind it. Met many " bashers", had a dance, fine food, celebrity artist Donna Gibb did a painting depicting the bash from Echuca to Broome. Auctioned for $4250 along with orher items to raise money for sick children. Macca in on the act too. Now he's in Mt Isa doing his program. The trip to Cloncurrie enlivened by bash cars passing us and tooting their idiosyncratic horns.

 Wals Camp at Cloncurry is a winner. The country from Cloncurry to Mt Isa has been amazing. Love it. 

We're in Katter country. 

This trip is in many ways an emotional roller coaster ride. We are inspired by people doing so much without resources we take for granted. We are saddened by illness and loss - of human and furry friends. We are buoyed by the resilience,creativity, courage and ingenuity we see. 

RIP Charlie boy. We love you. 

Mini school In Emerald

Five degrees and 7.00am Monday morning. I'm off to Emerald. Meg and Blake travel with Marjorie. Big news on radio is announcement of election 7 Sept. Clashes with Birdsville Races so AEC will have lots of staff volunteering to cater for 6000+ absentee voters. 

Easy sunny trip in and great to meet the kids' other grandparents, Michael's Mum and Dad on their cotton, chick pea and wheat farm.  See Nan and Pop below. 

At the Emerald campus of Capricornia School of Distance Education I watched school assembly. Years 5 and 6 are at a camp in Sydney. Kindy kids in for first two days.  They have EKindy at home. Love the school song. On roster for canteen. The classrooms and grounds and facilities are new and beautifully maintained. Here is Meg's classroom. 

Blake's room

Week spent attending meetings with teachers parents and tutors. Mixing with parents and tutors over Smoko, getting to know various staff. Principal came to us via Skype from Sydney. Takes me back to my School Council and Parent Club days. Some things haven't changed.  Have to bite my tongue and sit on my hands. Example of issue - School has a budget for printing set 15 years ago in days of black and white only.  Everyone creative and generous in addressing the problem but why  QLD Govt not paying for this?  The printed learning materials are the bread and butter of distance education.  And QLD refused the Gonski money! 

Learning tips to address some little areas for improvement back in the home classroom. Loving watching the kids at smoko and in class. Meg and Blake both did excellent presentations to an audience. They start very young to build confidence.  Learning about apps I can use to engage and support learning improvement. Lots of time to shop, use WiFi at the local library. Relaxing evenings at Michael's parents farm watching TV and playing.   This is Megs classroom decorated Japanese style. 

Very proud of them and happy to provide videos to the family. 

 Meg dressed Japanese style and Blake French for multicultural day. 

We all went to the circus on Thursday night after eating at an Italian restaurant. Big treat for Meg and Blake. They loved the food. The circus was fabulous. Cheryl met the eight year old performer who does home schooling as the circus travels and saw the caravan that is her classroom.  Was introduced to her mother and her current VISE teacher who comes from Tasmania and is enjoying the experience. Swapped emails with the mother. The family seemed keen for us to apply next year.  Too early to plan and much travelling to go with our 2013 adventure but exciting to think every year offers something new to explore. 

Back at Skye it's delightful to listen to Blake and Meg talk about the seasons and how busy they are during summer school holidays mustering etc. Blake loves Spring when the new calves arrive. 

It's amazingly relaxing sitting on the veranda watching chickens scratch in the dirt - it's been watered here so moist lower down - they are quite systematic and thorough in their work. Very focused - as Blake is practising to be. I can hear Meg riding around on the quad bike. Once school is over for the day,  there are many things to do. Often solitary but the kids love this place and are at one with nature. 

This week a crop duster is here to kill the brigalow seedlings to maintain pasture in one of the 30 huge paddocks. Colin stood behind the plane to take a video of it taking off. Guess what happened;)

Planning the next stage of the journey to Darwin. As our first stop, we're happy to be catching up with New Zealand friends June and Colin whose van we bought last March on the Gold Coast.  They are back in Oz with a new rig. Couldn't keep away. They are at Sapphire on a mine so will stay with them for a couple of days and do a bit of digging.  Next stop Longreach, then Winton and on in north west direction. Lots to see and anticipating Northern Territory beauty. 

We will miss Skye and all its residents. For all you ex teachers this is something not to be missed.