Hello Malaysia

How we laughed. Last night after a great dinner at an Italian restaurant at the Danga Bay marina, Johor, Malaysia we opened a box of Cadbury Choc-coated Almonds I bought at the hypermarket at Pangkalun Bun I was saving for a celebratory treat. Box 10x6". Inside the usual moulded container. Sitting in that a tiny foil packet of almonds. Never seen so much packaging for so little result. 

Might have been a hint of hysteria and tiredness in our laughter. What a day we had. And what an experience Indonesia has been and how sad we are to leave it behind. 

Starting out from Nirwana Waters resort, Bintan in company with other yachts. Blue skies, lovely morning, little wind but faint cooling breeze. 

Here is Calypso with South African friends aboard.

Delicious to call friends and family as we go along via Facebook. We think FB has bought out Viber and that's how we can use the iPad as a phone and surprise the recipients with an unexpected ring.   Last calls to make contact before leaving Indonesia and use up our phone credit. 

The volume of ship traffic increases as we motor along, as do the flotsam and jetsam.  Are we phased by what the Singapore Straits look like live on Ship Traffic?

We slow to pick up a heavy duty orange life buoy lost from a vessel. Some nervous anticipation of crossing the Malacca and Singapore Straits and dodging the traffic with no right of way whatsoever. 

You need to magnify to see the number of vessels here.

As it turned out, in Johns's excellent experienced hands and three other pairs of eyes to monitor we had no issues and all potential incidents could be seen and avoided. We smiled to see the tiny fishing boats half a mile from ships. They seemed almost underneath. The usual waves and smiles exchanged as we passed by. 

The day gets hotter, more overcast and incredibly humid. Singapore is impressive and we pass about 20 miles of coastline as we head to the Jahor Strait. We see the high towers with the swimming pool suspended on a platform above (Elizabeth Baird had recently shared photos she and Malcolm took of this close up), the giant ferris wheel and the Durian shaped arts and entertainment precinct. We pass around Raffles lighthouse (see below), 

Raffles marina and finally up the river with Singapore on the right shore surrounded by a wire fence for border security and Malaysia on the left. 

We approach the Causeway bridge that links Singapore with Malaysia - it has 25 meter height clearance above water. Our mast goes under with 2 meters clearance. Looks pretty interesting from underneath. 

We pass Puteri marina which is very upmarket and has huge shopping complex. Toys R Us is here too:). On approach to Danga Bay marina the friendly efficient voice of Terrence, Marina Manager, leads us to our berth alongside pier 4 where we find many of the Sail Indonesia fleet already tucked in. 

The weather looks decidedly ominous over the nearby land reclamation area and we hope the rain holds off.  It does and then we experience the heaviest downpour so far in our travels. What a pity we hadn't time to get the rainwater collection device ready. 

 As Chris of Out of the Blue said, the day was a buzz and it was great to be in a marina with club facilities after weeks at anchorages.

It is quite different here. At first, it seems no one wants to shake our hand or have photos taken. Oh dear, "Rooster one day, feather duster the next".  However as you wander around and speak to people, especially in their language, it does happen. Met a girl this morning for instance who just graduated in CivilEngineering and spent time in Melbourne last year.  It's just that we kind of got used to being mobbed and having star status :)))

Very friendly helpful staff at the marina and in the restaurants and bars and the best lasagna I've ever had even though made with chicken instead of beef. Lots of Mosquitos so out comes the net for our bed tonight. 

 Enjoyed the shops today and decide to change our flight back so we can enjoy more sights at leisure. 

Delphian is now snug under its boat covers 

which will be great to shelter us from sun and rain. It's nostalgic to see Ted's 'T' on the sails and covers. Ted was a sailmaker known to all Sandringham Yacht Club sailors who sadly passed away last year.  His work lives on. 

We enjoy the bar at night with some good singers. 

Our photographer. Seems the Malaysians are as happy to pose for photos as the Indonesians.

Johor Bahru or JB as the locals call it has been a shopping experience, with daily storm and rain in the afternoon and pleasant evenings. Nice to stop still for a while. Still to explore Singapore and have extended return flight date to do so.  Our laundry went off to be done today. Yay!  It's the little things that give so much pleasure. 

Enjoying keeping in touch with you all back home and those new friends of all nations we have made on our travels. 

What do we look forward to on returning home to Australia?  A good cappuccino, crusty white bread, affordable red wine as we travel down through the red centre, cuddling family and friends along the way and back in Melbourne, including the furry ones. Mowing the lawn (ha ha), sharing photos and stories, a visit for me to the podiatrist and not having swollen feet, swimming in cool surf. Going to the movies and Tiamo in Lygon St. Getting back to art class and the lovely company and lunch that goes with that. Seeing my Vietnamese students and hopefully two new arrivals to the Dinh family. 

Using this experience to enrich the interactions I have in my volunteer work and thinking about the next adventure to the outback and on the oceans. 

From the quiet Java sea and fishing boats to the busy ship traffic of the rubbish-strewn Singapore Straits

Does a school of flying fish become a flock of flying fish when it leaves the water, wonders Colin. This morning we left the Java Sea and entered the South China Sea. Shortly we will be in the Singapore Straits as we reach Bintan, our last stop in wonderful Indonesia. 

Back at anchorage in pretty Kentar Island we celebrated crossing the Equator at 5.28 am 22 October. 

We joined Lyn and Chris on catamaran Out of the Blue ll and Bill and Becky of Water Musik for drinks and nibbles. 

The locals at Kentar visited us in small row boats. Seems a very poor village. Enjoyed conversing with 19 year old Rico who was studying Environmental Studies at Uni. Bauxite is mined at Kentar. Each boat wanted to have a chat and each asked afterwards for sugar, shampoo, shirts, books, pens. We gave them what we had left along with lollies for the kids. A number of them had turned eye problems and blindness.  A fisherman brought us fish and would not accept payment. We asked him to take back some gifts. Would have liked to visit the village and nearby town. Next time!

Enjoyed a swim inthe clean clear water. 

I cooked scones for the first time:

- on a boat

- in the Northern Hemisphere

- in Indonesia 

Nearing our last destination we indulge in a nibbles platter as well. 

Next day sailing, or should say motoring, with no wind and very still seas. Saw dolphins, flying fish, a water snake and colourful caterpillar-like creatures with frilly sides. Magical journey. 

After a short stop at anchor for a rest amongst hundreds of floating fishing huts we reach the Nirwana Waters resort at Bintan.

Beautiful island.  Definitely a change of pace. Swimming pool with swim-up bar, showers, western toilets that work! But also Australian prices charged in Singapore dollars. What? $8.00 for a Bintang beer? Here we submit our papers to the waiting immigration officials for departure from Indonesia. A trouble free process. Not so easy for Colin and I to access our money through the ATM at the resort for some reason. 

The resort is preparing for our farewell dinner. This will be the last organised event for Sail Indonesia. At 1.00pm we eagerly await Sam's arrival in the traditional Indonesian sailing boat. Three days and two nights with three crew. Wooden seats, no cover from sun or rain. This is an amazing journey. The Regent of Belitung who owns the boat and his entourage are on the beach as the official welcoming party. It is to go into a maritime museum at Bintan. 

Sam is in the black TShirt. The Regent in the mustard coloured shirt to the left.  Sam tells Cec the head of the village at Bangka called him to say his wife is still crying after we left. Definitely made an impact back there. 

And what a party. Three course buffet meal, tables en plain air in the moonlight by the shore in front of a stage from which we are entertained with both traditional music and dance and more upbeat modern dance (Los Vegas Indonesian one of our American friends calls it). Speeches and gift sharing between Belitung and Bintan province Regents and a rousing and emotional thanks to Sam, the Sail Indonesia Rally organiser extraordinaire.  And finally the resort band plays modern songs starting with Sailing by Rod Stewart. This is the last chance for yachties of many nationalities and ages to dance their hearts out and say goodbye to good friends made. Eleven year old Melody from Water Musik is wearing a hijab and dancing with 6' 6" Jason from Yolo. The band are so pleased with this reception they come down to dance with us. 

Now I sit in the cockpit in the gentle swell watching many of the yachts leave for marinas in Singapore or Malaysia and hearing them converse and playfully fill radio Channel 77 with music to each other "on the road again ..."  "Convoy" by CW McCall :)) Included are one yacht with disabled motors being towed by another. We wish them luck across the busy Straits.  Today we will fix things on the boat, sort out banking and communication issues and enjoy the pool and restaurant with the remaining crews. A restful day before we too tackle the Straits. 

To be continued ....

Bangka

2301 nautical miles from Darwin. Expect to get to Equator tomorrow in 80 NM at an island called  Kentar around sunrise 22 October 2013. Champagne!

Here we are motoring along steadily on calm seas at night. Have regretfully left Bangka en route to Bintan. Thunderstorms playing around us. Full moon hiding behind the clouds. Plenty of ships as we cross the busy shipping lanes going north, traffic coming from Singapore. The usual fishing boats and "squiddies" to keep us on the lookout ncluding the odd one without lights.  Good time to write the blog. 

So how did you go with guessing what Du Dul is? It is a confection made from coconut, rice, palm sugar, flavouring and rolled in a log about 8cm by 30cm and wrapped in glad wrap. Sliced its delicious for dessert. It does look rather like a couple of other things reminiscent of its name to an English ear. Cousin Lizzie hinted at 33%. 

Every place we go we say it can't get better than this. Well Bangka has done it again. First impressions were not great as the anchorage was very rolly and we were affected by fumes from the diesel of a fishing boat anchored near by. The water seemed very milky and not appealing to swim in. Some yachts departed immediately next morning despite Sam arriving in his Indonesial sailboat and asking them to stay.  This was a great shame as the weather settled, the sea became a mill pond and cleared, the friendliest people so far here and the treats they provided were just incredible. It was a shame for the people of Bangka and the organisers that only ten yachts came to this event and 7 stayed for all the activities provided. 

There appeared to be little there as we arrived on the beach in our rubber duck. Just a couple of sheds with tables, some bins for rubbish and a half built stage - again first impressions of the village of Beriga were deceiving. We have learnt to have faith in Sam, the Sail Indonesia rally leader, and in each committee in the places we visit to provide something unique, surprising and often overwhelming in each destination. The children and indeed all the villagers were keen to say hello and get close to us. Hello Mister. Like most places since Bali westerners are rarely seen. 

Sam sailed this boat with two others from East Belitung to Bangka. Now sailing to Bintan can do 8 to 9 knots. 

A bus was waiting to take us to Koba, the nearest town, for shopping and sightseeing. Our guides Robby and Rahmat from the tourism department and volunteers Edi and Sylvia took us through the island pointing out the tin mining areas- devastation - the rubber, palm oil and pepper plantations.

In town we visited the Chinese temple. There are a large number of Chinese descendants living here alongside the Malays. Islam is the predominant religion. The frescoes and statues in the temple were quite confronting in their violence, depicting Hell and Heaven and the three gods - the wise one, the war god and protector, and the lady. 

Kerryn from Yolo showing how big the candles are n front of the lady.

Hell.

Heaven. 

Jason from Yolo checking his name is not on the register to go to Hell. 

Once the food and fuel purchase had been made on this six hour trip we return to find the scene had been set for the festival. We were asked to visit the homes of the village chief and two others. These were substantial homes with tiled floors, lavish furniture and bathrooms which we were invited to use during our stay in the village. 

At each we were offered nibbles and drinks and asked to pose for photos - this can be hard work when it is so incredibly hot and humid and people are crowding around to greet you.  Always  a crowd of spectators.  We four were invited to dinner at the Head-man's house with Sam and the Mnister for Tourism. Pinkie snapper cooked on coals beside the front verandah. 

This village would have welcomed us sleeping over in their houses.  Then we were ushered to our seats of honour under the newly built pavilion to look across a small grassy valley to the entertainment stage with the sea as backdrop. A perfect position to enjoy the show and to be part of it as we responded to invitations to sing or dance.  

This was the first of three evenings of performances from a number of villages in Central Bangka region competing for recognition and monetary prizes. Requests for photos were constant with the occasional policeman or soldier shooing the people away so we could have a rest. The police who visited our yacht for photos explained that 40 extra had been brought in for the occasion. Their presence was obvious yet unobtrusive they seem to maintain order quietly without show of force. 

Next morning John and Cec handd out pencils, notepads and lollipops. 

On Saturday Cec and John did some boat maintenance. Colin and I again boarded a bus for a tour.  The children saw us off. Hundreds of them :)

This time we went into the forest to see bees being smoked out to collect the honey. Some of us got stung. We were given honey drink, corn, boiled peanuts for morning tea. 

Cheers!  Harris was also the MC and translator for the entertainment. 

Then we went to the honey store where we were given a piece of honeycomb, some extra honey -madu- poured on top and a piece of cassava to eat it with. More cold honey juice to refresh. Yum!!  

A walk in the steamy forrest to see the red trunked Pelawan trees where special mushrooms grow that dried fetch $100 US a kilo. They come out when the lightening comes - later we treated to traditional lunch including these mushrooms. 

Young Raymond from Water Musik. He and brother Joey are very popular with the Indonesian girls and getting less shy every day!

We were treated to a traditional Bangka meal unique to the bee area. This was enjoyed in a meeting house on stilts in the middle of paddy fields where red rice another specialty of the area is grown. We were told we were extremely privileged to be given such a meal by this village chief. It was extremely spicy so some of us struggled to eat much of it but the hospitality was wonderful. 

On the way home an unexpected treat was a visit for Chris and Lyn from Out of the Blue ll Colin and I four of us to Robby's home where we spent time with his wife, son and nine month twin daughters. 

Check these two in their island shirts. 

Sunday the best was yet to come. Incoming were mountain bike riders from Jakarta and elsewhere in the Tour de Bangka. Like us they were in a rally and donating fruit trees to the local community. 

The main attraction however was a mass wedding. 36 couples formalised their marriages. Early we were invited to visit the house where the brides make-up was being done. 

Next door the decorations including hard-boiled eggs in little baskets hanging from paper trees were being prepared.

 We were asked to go and film the wedding procession including a brass band and to join in the procession. Chance for soldiers to get a photo.

The couples in their traditional dress, Muslim or Christian, were seated on a stage with their respective witnesses and celebrants. And can you believe we were asked to join them and sit right beside a couple each to watch the ceremony and have it explained to us? It really felt intrusive and we were embarrassed but it was great kudos for them apparently to have us there. It was very moving. 

Meanwhile Sam makes a quiet escape to head off to Bintan. We glimpse him going by Kentor Island, our next anchorage. 

Finally we were asked to have a special meal "nangeen" prepared by the village women and to sit on the ground eating it in front of the whole village. Had to watch our manners (eating with right hand only) and it was not hard to show much appreciation as it was delicious. We felt guilty eating in front of everyone. We are so rich and they are mostly so poor. 

Finally we were asked to go onstage and sing to honour the brides and grooms. Luckily someone had song words so we sang Yesterday by the Beatles, Sailing by Rod Stewart and finally, (Robby the guides idea ) La Bamba in Spanish.  Followed by dancing, each of us being partnered by a local. Wow!

When all the speeches, singing, dancing and celebrations were over we were all escorted to our respective dingies. At this point everyone wanted a last chance to shake hands and in some cases kiss us. Tears fell on both sides. We left with regret and we wonder how they are feeling today after this festival which is such a rare occasion for them. There will be many pictures to share and yes many of them are on Facebook. 

What will the children remember of this? Some of the little ones were scared of us. Others, like the little girl who befriended me, will remember washing herself all over with my dettol handwash as she sat on my knee and we watched the show together she flicking through the photos on my iPad trying to find the one of me on the beach in my bathers. A source of much fascination to her and the others crowding around us to look. 

After a couple of nights and days sailing and a brief stop to toast crossing the Equator we reach our last destinationof Bintan in Indonesia. This is a resort town and the last event before we check out of Indonesia and make for a marina in Malaysia within easy reach of Singapore. 

Can't believe this magical journey has gone so fast  We are enjoying every moment in such great company.